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Routes in Plumb Line Gully

A Little Razz-Ma-Tazz and All That Jazz T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Acute Angle Var. T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Boomerang T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Filthy Garbage T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Gravity's Rainbow T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c A1
Hangman T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Plumb Line T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Zot T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Type: Trad, 250 ft, 2 pitches
FA: 1st pitch: Lynn Wheeler and Jeff Newsome. 2nd pitch: Jeff Newsome and Les Ellison. Circa 1980/81
Page Views: 3,145 total, 21/month
Shared By: Ben Sukow on Sep 19, 2005
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

Follow the regular approach to plumb line, but go right up the plumb line gully rather than left to plumb line. Bushwack a ways up the gully until a right leaning finger crack appears to your left. Pitch 1 climbs a rising traverse up the crack using a cool mix of liebacking and finger locks. Expend good fingers coupled with exfoliating granite foot holds (these should clean up with more traffic). The second pitch is 5.9- s. If you're in the area of plumb line, this climb is well worth doing.

Protection

Nuts and small cams. Doubles or triples of green and yellow aliens are advised. Due to the rising traverse on the first pitch, either back cleaning or a fair amount of small cams are needed to avoid ground fall. Don't forget to protect the second. There is a two bolt anchor with chains at the top of the first pitch.

Photos

Tyler Needham
Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.10a/b
Tyler Needham   Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.10a/b
Really phenomenal route (I think it's cleaned up a lot since the early comments). Crux section where the feet disappear felt a bit harder than 10a, but the locks are good and so is the gear. May 22, 2017
KG
SLC, UT
  5.10a
KG   SLC, UT
  5.10a
People! Get on this route! It is just as good if not better than Plumb Line. Its right on for 10a, lots of edges out right to stand on and great gear the whole way. If you are doing Plumb Line you definitely need to do this.

Rack:
doubles BD .3-.5
Single BD .75-3 & .1-.2 Apr 25, 2016
Pitch 2 is to be avoided in my opinion. I might say it was the worst pitch I've climbed in LCC. Oct 16, 2014
Garret Nuzzo-Jones
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Garret Nuzzo-Jones   Salt Lake City, UT
 
Stiff route, quite a bit harder than most 5.10a climbs in LCC. Vaguely reminiscent of Disco Duck, but without any chickenheads for feet.

Watch for the extremely sharp rope-eating crack towards the top. Core-shot my rope badly. Mar 22, 2014
Spencer Weiler
Salt Lake city
 
Spencer Weiler   Salt Lake city
 
Pitch one is great. Pitch 2 is great way to spice up your life. Expect some slabby face climbing protected by ratty slung pitons intermixed with an occasional cam in a pod, with a final long undercling crack to finish it out. A little gritty, but never R though one roof must be pulled with gear at your feet. Doubles small c3's to .5 camalot pretty mandatory for pitch 2, and your belay is a slung bushel. Could use a bolted belay here. Overall really fun climb. Jul 27, 2012
Ben Folsom  
 
Both pitches can be combined into one long 70 meter pitch (just barely). Jan 16, 2012
Alec LaLonde
  5.10-
Alec LaLonde  
  5.10-
I thought this was a bit harder than Plumb Line, definitely more sustained and with an equally tricky crux. Unfortunately much dirtier than its neighbor. Nov 27, 2011
I agree with TP--the second pitch is an adventure: undercling-liebacks on crumbly rock, a few relics of fixed nonsense and a gripping mantle to finish things off. Worthy, for sure, but--perhaps--not worth it. Nov 9, 2009
The first ascent of the first pitch was done by Lynn Wheeler and I. Les Ellison added the second pitch at a later date.This was around 1980/81.........Cheers,Jeff Newsom Aug 18, 2008
Arie
Smog Lake City, Utah
  5.10-
Arie   Smog Lake City, Utah
  5.10-
Pitch one is excellent- pumpy locks with an occasional lieback thrown in. A couple of finger finger sized cams are nice and a #3 camalot is handy on the exit (tipped out #2 works). The occasional small foothold saves the day and the forearms, but the grit can be a bit unnerving given the vague deck potential. Jun 12, 2007
fun route!! Punch it!! Sep 22, 2005