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Routes in Plumb Line Gully

A Little Razz-Ma-Tazz and All That Jazz T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Acute Angle Var. T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Boomerang T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Filthy Garbage T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Gravity's Rainbow T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c A1
Hangman T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Plumb Line T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Zot T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Type: Trad, 55 ft
FA: Rosenthal & Wolfe 1988
Page Views: 251 total · 9/month
Shared By: Charlie S on Dec 5, 2015
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

Typical LCC slabbing at an incredible and improbable angle. Work your way up unique chickenhead mantles interspersed by spacial voids of holds.
Finally finish up the last part of the climbing on slightly easier but just as committing moves far above your last bolt. Top out directly or traverse to the Plumb Line chains.

Location

10 feet to the right of Plumb Line is a giant chickenhead. Surmount the chickenhead, clip the bolt, and try to make it to the next one without falling. Repeat.

Protection

3 bolts. You can try to put in a very small cam at the top but it's an exercise in futility. Good news: the lower cruxes are all protected by a bolt.

Photos

Tim Wolfe
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.11d R
Tim Wolfe   Salt Lake City, UT  
  5.11d R
I have never known anyone else to climb this route. George and I spent many hours over a few days trying to free this route (it was put in ground up, hand drilled). We each fell 30-40 times off the first moves - the crux. Finally and improbably - George stuck the move and got up on top of the chicken head. I tossed him the drill. He put two bolts in the middle section, clipped the 3rd bolt after drilling it and climbed to the top. The R rating is all about the final third of the route - 5.8 unprotected moves. Funny thing, the day we succeeded we got hassled about what a squeeze the route was by some guys who were much better technical climbers. Then they tried it. Nothing more said. Many other routes were "squeezed" in by them in this canyon over future years. Jan 11, 2016
Charlie S
Ogden, UT
 
Charlie S   Ogden, UT
 
Thanks for the great history and comments, Tim! We just TRed it and were shut down multiple times. It has some really unique movement. Jan 11, 2016
Miguel D
SLC
Miguel D   SLC
After climbing Plumb Line, we decided to give this a try, not knowing what route it was. Also got shut down several times making the first few moves after the first bolt. Tough stuff! Aug 31, 2016

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