Type: Trad, 120 ft (36 m)
FA: Lemieux/Howes May 2018
Page Views: 1,183 total · 17/month
Shared By: skiandclimb on Jun 5, 2018
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C

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Warning Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Fun new slab route with an exciting crux at the very last move. Start on botton right of slab. Friction up the low angle slab past 3 bolts to a bulge. Runout on easy ground to pro in crack. Stand on 2 chicken heads, clip bolt and figure out the sequence past 5th bolt. Cruise up easier terrain to the exciting last move over a large chickenhead.
70 meter rope mandatory with knots in end!!!
Easy to stick-clip 1st bolt or spot leader.

Location Suggest change

This route is located on the West facing wall (right as you go up the gully). It's the 2nd bolted route right of Octoberfest 5.7, just down and right of Calderone Slab 5.9.

Protection Suggest change

9 bolts and one gear placement .4/.5

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