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Areas in Parley's Canyon

Bungalow, The 1 / 10 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 11
Iron Curtain Wall 0 / 10 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 10
Pharaoh's Glen 1 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Pharaoh's Hat 2 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Riptide Wall 5 / 6 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 9
Ubud Wall 1 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Elevation: 4,907 ft
GPS: 40.712, -111.79 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 48,412 total · 273/month
Shared By: Andrew Gram on Apr 3, 2004
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq
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Description

Parley's Canyon is not as pleasant or extensive as Little or Big Cottonwood Canyon, but there is a bit of decent climbing if you don't mind the roar of the interstate.

Getting There

Parleys is the canyon that I-80 uses to reach Park City. Decent crags are widely scattered and use different approaches.

38 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Parley's Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 10
Two Shovels
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 135
Up In a Flash
Sport
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 19
The Dugout
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 100
Gotta Be Tall Or Else You'll Fall
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 21
Riptide
Trad, Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 31
Edge of the Sea
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 14
Prybar
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 51
Perestroika
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 60
Iron Curtain
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 26
Feeding Frenzy
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 14
Crosscurrent
Sport, TR
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 23
One With the Rock
Sport, TR
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 23
Astroprojection
Trad, Sport, TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Two Shovels Bungalow
 10
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Up In a Flash Iron Curtain Wall
 135
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
The Dugout Bungalow
 19
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Sport
Gotta Be Tall Or Else You'l… Iron Curtain Wall
 100
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Riptide Riptide Wall
 21
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, Sport
Edge of the Sea Riptide Wall
 31
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Prybar Bungalow
 14
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Perestroika Iron Curtain Wall
 51
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Iron Curtain Iron Curtain Wall
 60
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Feeding Frenzy Riptide Wall
 26
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Crosscurrent Riptide Wall
 14
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport, TR
One With the Rock Iron Curtain Wall
 23
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport, TR
Astroprojection Riptide Wall
 23
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Trad, Sport, TR
More Classic Climbs in Parley's Canyon »

Weather Averages

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J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
Parleys has a surprising number of good climbs in a small area. I prefered the Iron Curtain wall, with a variety of routes ranging from 5.8 to 5.11. You have your choice of 40-110 foot routes. Thin crimps and friction feet are the order of the day, although a few of the routes (Up in a Flash, Gotta be Tall, Out of Touch) are quasi jug-hauls. Generally speaking, the first bolts are pretty high, especially Up in a Flash. And some would consider the routes a bit run out, with big whippers possible.Almost all of the routes have spinner bolts. This may paint a bleak picture, particularly with canyon winds and traffic noise to add to the (lack of) ambience. But those who persevere will be rewarded with suprisingly good, high quality climbing. This crag is worth at least one solid, long day per season. Jul 10, 2004
A number of these routes would be three stars if not for the location. The highway is annoying and the descent to the base is heinous. Other than that, the climbing is great. Oct 5, 2004
Dalton  
I think this area is great when its not too crowded. People complain about the traffic and highway, but that makes it a great urban climbing scene. Its an area you can knock out a climb over lunch.

Apr 4, 2005
Ryan Brough
Arvada, Colorado
Ryan Brough   Arvada, Colorado
I respectfully disagree with Mr. Pierce. Although many of the trails (chutes) leading to the base of the climbs are "heinous", there are alternatives. There is an easy trail that branches off of the service road after passing the shack that leads to the top of the Riptide Wall. Even easier, you can rappel from the anchors atop both Iron Curtain Wall and Riptide Wall! Aug 26, 2006
WARNING -- Criminal Activity at the parking lot of this crag

I was parked in the parking lot of this crag on 9/23/07 (northern terminus of Wasatch Blvd.) when my car was broken into. The driver's side window was smashed, along with that of another car next to mine.

We encountered a shady-looking character at the top of the crag (Iron Curtain wall) with a hammer and chisel-like device. About 25-30 years old, male, short brown hair, 6 feet or so, claimed he lived in the area (walking distance). Be wary when parking here... Sep 23, 2007
AnthonyJ
Salt Lake City UT
AnthonyJ   Salt Lake City UT
Many of the bolts on the riptide wall should be replaced. If anybody feels up to the task I would happily donate cash for some of the hardware. Sep 21, 2009
Shaft
Salt Lake City
Shaft   Salt Lake City
Anthony, I agree with you, those crags could use some attention. One way to get this on the radar of the ASCA/SLCA for bolt replacement is to post this exact information in the forum found here:

saltlakeclimbers.org/forum/…

A donation to the ASCA with a message about the $ being earmarked for Parleys might also help, no guarantees though.

safeclimbing.org Sep 21, 2009
I will try to get to it this weekend.

Thanks for the heads up. Oct 22, 2009
A group of friends and myself were climbing at Parleys canyon today, my friends car and the car next to ours were broken into. Something to be aware of. Whoever did it was moving quick and knew just what they were doing. This seems to happen disturbingly often, A reminder that it is best to leave your car empty while climbing anywhere in the wasatch front and you may consider leaving your windows open. I have heard a few stories of windows broken when the door wasn't even locked and nothing was in the vehicle. Oct 2, 2011
Greg Gavin
SLC, UT
Greg Gavin   SLC, UT
Fun fact:

The stone at this crag is known as the Gartra Grit, and similar to but not the same as the quartzite in BCC or the Olympus massif. Apr 9, 2015
If you were climbing here on Tuesday, 5/30, and are missing something, please PM me and tell me what it is. My climbing partner picked it up on accident thinking it was mine. Give a description and we will get it back to you! Jun 1, 2017

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