Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 204 total · 1/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on May 18, 2001
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

29 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:

     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:

-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick


This is the climb that climbs the flake on the right side. It pops over the flake and then starts a nice rightward shuffle. The shuffle is a blast, as the crack is nice on the fingers.


Bring large hexes and medium nuts for the anchors. Also, bring medium to large gear for the climb with some runners.


Andrew Gram
Salt Lake City, UT
Andrew Gram   Salt Lake City, UT  
Stout for 5.8, awkward, and the crack flares inward so gear is a bit tricky to place, though solid if you work at it. Not nearly as good as the other 5.8 on the buttress. Jul 7, 2004
Lee Gitlin
Lee Gitlin  
The hardest move is getting off the ground, although you can protect the initial moves by placing a piece before you start climbing. Good hand jamming technique is a must, and there is a second crux right below the roof. The route protects well with SLCDs and hexes. The anchor station is a nice, picnic table ledge. Oct 7, 2004
Cameron Charles  
This is a fun route, I thought the gear was fine, it is just a little short. Jun 20, 2007
Nuts protect this better than cams; really irregular crack system.

Fun route, just a little short.

Also: a 2 bolt anchor has been added to a slab near the end of the route. I found it easier just to continue traversing off right to the tree/gully and belay from there. I don't really see the point of the newly added bolt anchors: you can't even rap from them since there are no quicklinks there. Jun 9, 2010
Tim Wolfe
Salt Lake City, UT
Tim Wolfe   Salt Lake City, UT  
Second best route on the wall after the 5.9 just to this routes left. Jul 2, 2011
Greg Z
Sandy, UT
Greg Z   Sandy, UT
This climb would be a good intro to trad climbing in BCC imo. Take your time and practice sewing it up! Clean it, think about what you really need up there and do it again. Jul 7, 2012