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Routes in Talk Buttress

Baby Talk T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Direct North Ridge T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Empty Rhetoric T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Hyperbole S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Look Who's Talking T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Notalotatalk T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Over Easy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Talkin' Smack S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Talking Tough T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 151 total, 1/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on May 18, 2001
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


28 Opinions

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Description

This is the climb that climbs the flake on the right side. It pops over the flake and then starts a nice rightward shuffle. The shuffle is a blast, as the crack is nice on the fingers.

Protection

Bring large hexes and medium nuts for the anchors. Also, bring medium to large gear for the climb with some runners.

Photos

Greg Z
Sandy, UT
5.7
Greg Z   Sandy, UT
5.7
This climb would be a good intro to trad climbing in BCC imo. Take your time and practice sewing it up! Clean it, think about what you really need up there and do it again. Jul 7, 2012
Tim Wolfe
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.8
Tim Wolfe   Salt Lake City, UT  
  5.8
Second best route on the wall after the 5.9 just to this routes left. Jul 2, 2011
Nuts protect this better than cams; really irregular crack system.

Fun route, just a little short.

Also: a 2 bolt anchor has been added to a slab near the end of the route. I found it easier just to continue traversing off right to the tree/gully and belay from there. I don't really see the point of the newly added bolt anchors: you can't even rap from them since there are no quicklinks there. Jun 9, 2010
Cameron Charles  
  5.8
This is a fun route, I thought the gear was fine, it is just a little short. Jun 20, 2007
Lee Gitlin
  5.8
Lee Gitlin  
  5.8
The hardest move is getting off the ground, although you can protect the initial moves by placing a piece before you start climbing. Good hand jamming technique is a must, and there is a second crux right below the roof. The route protects well with SLCDs and hexes. The anchor station is a nice, picnic table ledge. Oct 7, 2004
Andrew Gram
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.8+
Andrew Gram   Salt Lake City, UT  
  5.8+
Stout for 5.8, awkward, and the crack flares inward so gear is a bit tricky to place, though solid if you work at it. Not nearly as good as the other 5.8 on the buttress. Jul 7, 2004