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Routes in Salt Lake Slips

Abracadabra T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Chalking Dead T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Double Tap S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Entre Nous S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Forgotten Ambition T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Goth Girls S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
High Fructose Corn Syrup S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Italian Arete S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Maudlin S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Nosferatu S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Roll the Bones S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Salem's Lot S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Senseless Banter T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Thieving Magpie S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Use-To-Be-Bushy T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Witchhunt S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Zombieland T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Type: Sport, TR, 60 ft
FA: Shane Willet, Mike Carnahan 1992
Page Views: 6,078 total · 33/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on Aug 13, 2003
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

This is one tough climb, steep and prolonged, with odd angles. What makes it worse is that the anchors are hard to clip into. But, when you get clipped at the top you will feel on top of the world.

Protection

4 quickdraws, and two for the anchors. Bring 2 small slings to clip the anchors as they are awkward to clip.

Photos

Vince Romney
  5.10c
Vince Romney  
  5.10c
Just a bit of beta for the lead...

as I approach the chains, I have found there is an adequate right hand up high and right, which allows me to hang off a straight arm to clip my daisy chain into the chains with my left hand. I find this a key hold as most of the time I'm usually a little pumped by the time I reach the chains. Aug 5, 2004
Lee Gitlin
  5.10b
Lee Gitlin  
  5.10b
If you like bouldering problems at the gym, you'll love Salem's Lot. Lots of interesting body position required, with very positive holds if your belly button is pointed in the right direction. My crux was at the anchor chains. One caution: if you swing too much during rap/lowering, you find yourself bouncing off a rather large tree. Aug 21, 2004
vincent pierce
  5.10c
vincent pierce  
  5.10c
Fun... but clipping those chains is quite awkward. Jul 6, 2005
Ryan Peterson
North Salt Lake, Utah
Ryan Peterson   North Salt Lake, Utah
Climb is covered in bat guano. At least 4 huge piles on the way up. Jun 9, 2007
john richards
salt lake city UT
  5.10a
john richards   salt lake city UT
  5.10a
easier than witch hunt in my opinion. far right pocket for your hand at the chains makes it easy to clip. Cleaning the route is what sucks. as you dangle there its hard not to spin in circles if your a short guy like me. Apr 21, 2008
icsteveoh
salt lake city, UT
  5.10b
icsteveoh   salt lake city, UT
  5.10b
Fun blackmonday-esk climbing to yes an awkward chain set up. But a big right hand is ticked with chalk and there's a huge hand left of the left bolt.

Probably equally as hard as chamber nautilus which is 10a but this climb is more sustained. May 18, 2008
Michael MacFadden  
  5.10b
I don't think we can judge the difficulty of this route against dog pile. The word on the street is that dog pile is severely sand-bagged. Also, this is definitely harder than wichhunt right next to it which has a 10a rating, so I would give this at least a 10b. May 19, 2008
Jon Zucco
Denver, CO
  5.10a/b
Jon Zucco   Denver, CO
  5.10a/b
climbs like 10b-ish. It's a great lap route, more sustained than witch-hunt with no obvious crux. there are great edges on either side of the chains. you just have to feel them out. (way easier than dog pile in that the holds are all pretty much huge.) Sep 17, 2008
mattjbudd
West Valley, UT
  5.10c
mattjbudd   West Valley, UT
  5.10c
Check out some footage.

youtube.com/watch?v=mJ8TytS… Aug 20, 2010
mattjbudd
West Valley, UT
  5.10c
mattjbudd   West Valley, UT
  5.10c
FYI, there was a key jug that fell off this route recently. I went there yesterday, and it was gone. It was a little jug right at the beginning where the overhang started. Before the hold came off, it felt like a 5.10a or 5.10b to me, but now it feels more like a 5.10b or 5.10c. Aug 20, 2010
Garrett C
SL, UT
  5.10b
Garrett C   SL, UT
  5.10b
Really fun climb. Juggs and sustained. Crux for me was clipping chains. As before mentioned, big hold on right of anchors makes it a bit easier to clip. Like a mini black monday Aug 30, 2013
Kirk Hilton
Murray, UT
 
Kirk Hilton   Murray, UT
 
This definitely felt like .10c. By the way, the last links on the chains are wearing thin. Anyone up for fixing this? I don't have the knowledge on how to properly do this (or the equipment I think I may need). Sep 14, 2013
kalockwood
SLC, UT
  5.10b/c
kalockwood   SLC, UT
  5.10b/c
New glue-in and quick links added to the anchor by James Garrett and I on 9/16/13 to address the grooved chains and rusty bolt. Safe to climb if you were worried about the previous post by Kirk H. Sep 17, 2013
Kirk Hilton
Murray, UT
 
Kirk Hilton   Murray, UT
 
Anchor looks great and is a solid setup now! Thanks guys! Sep 17, 2013
Andrew Warner
Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.10b
Andrew Warner   Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.10b
Climbed this last weekend and came here to post about the sketchy chains. So glad to hear they've been fixed because this is a great climb! Sep 20, 2013
David Jan
Salt Lake City, UT
David Jan   Salt Lake City, UT
Climbed this today, excellent pumpy route. Noticed the glue-in pin to the right of the two-bolts-n-chain setup is starting to bend downward cracking the glue. It looks as though it may potentially pull out someday. May 22, 2015
Thanks for bringing to our attention anything that appears out of the ordinary or perhaps unsafe. I do, however, recall when I installed this anchor that it looked like it tilted a bit downward immediately after placing it. Nature of the rock? As for the "cracking" in the glue on the surface of the glue in, not sure. Does it wiggle or is it loose? That bolt is long and I would bet it is super bomber UNLESS the rock around it has become unstable? If anyone else can add any more info on the status of this bolt, it would be very appreciated...otherwise, I will try to get to it soon. It is a 3 bolt anchor and I hope that it more than supplements the other two very rusted 25+ year old stud bolts. May 23, 2015
Marissa Astill
Park City, Utah
Marissa Astill   Park City, Utah
Really fun route! Top roping felt a lot easier. Clipping the bolts are very awkward but make for a good and fun challenge. I'd say top roping could be .10a or .10b but if you're leading .10c Sep 7, 2016
Connor Hendry
sandy utah
 
Connor Hendry   sandy utah
 
Pulled out the bent glue in today. Rest of the bolts and the other anchor still looked solid. Jul 24, 2017
OK, thanks for bringing this to our attention.
My earlier fears that it seemed to be bad rock where the glue-in replaced the other one must be the cause.
I believe it was previously a 3 bolt anchor and we replaced a spinner. Do two bolts still remain there?

I would suggest people stay off this route at least for a couple of days and then I will hope to return there and redo the anchor.

Thanks again for your understanding. I would love to see the bolt that pulled out if possible. I will drive to where you are, if that is OK. Jul 24, 2017
Top anchor repaired and ready to go Jul 25, 2017
Connor Hendry
sandy utah
 
Connor Hendry   sandy utah
 
You're the man James! I appreciate your concern and fixing the anchor so fast!! I replied to your email I'd been out of town a couple of days but if you wanna stop by and see it or I can meet you some where I'm all for it. Thanks for the speedy repair dude me and I hope the rest of my slc climbing community appreciates what you do! Jul 28, 2017
Charlie S
Ogden, UT
 
Charlie S   Ogden, UT
 
2nd bolt is suspect (rusted and spinning). Fun climb! Jun 16, 2018

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