Type: Trad, 250 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Les Ellison, Steve Carruthers 1981
Page Views: 3,218 total · 21/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on Aug 26, 2006
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

A fun route that climbs a groove that does protect rather well. It climbs the crack that cuts the slab right of Betty's and Cheap Thrills (The obvious right Facing wide crack). Mainly slab and face climbing with an odd crack move thrown in. Passing the roof at about 30 feet the rock was a little rotten, and right at the end of the first pitch also. The crux was just below the only bolt on the first pitch. The second pitch (I assume it is Altered State's second pitch), goes back left off the anchors into the crack, and reaches the bolt. After the bolt, find the easiest route through the multitude of chickenheads to the old belay tree. Don't touch it as it WILL fall and probably destroy your bags at the bottom. The easiest exit at this point is to continue up the wide crack until you reach the living pine tree seen in the distance. A 70 meter rope will barely reach. If you have a shorter rope plan on rigging an anchor. From here a 4th class scramble up and left will get you on top of Betty's Altered Elbow for a series of raps down. First pitch probably deserves three stars as it was fun and had relatively good rock the entire way. Second pitch had quite a bit of rice-y rock, and sketchy gear (1/4" buttonhead included). The exit pitch (Probably the last pitch of Cheap Thrills) had a few fun squeeze/chimney moves mixed in with a lot of loose and dangerous rock. I would recommend only doing the first pitch until the bolt and belay station gets replaced, and even then I would recommend that you are confident before leading that second pitch.

Location

20 or so feet right of Cheap Thrills, near the north end of the routes on the east side. Look for an easy crack system that cuts through the roof band.

Protection

There is a bolt and a piton on the first pitch and the second pitch has a bolt. Protection on the first pitch was standard rack. The second pitch had one good piece left of the anchors (largish cam), and a couple of micro nuts in a hollow flake system after the bolt. The climbing is easier but it is also kind of rotten, so be careful. The third pitch (exit pitch) needed really big gear. I had one piece that would work. It was also easy 5.6 or so. But the threat of rotten rock was everpresent. The runout rating I give is for the second pitch, although the first isn't well-protected.

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