Type: Trad, 250 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Les Ellison, Steve Carruthers 1981
Page Views: 2,979 total · 20/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on Aug 26, 2006
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details


A fun route that climbs a groove that does protect rather well. It climbs the crack that cuts the slab right of Betty's and Cheap Thrills (The obvious right Facing wide crack). Mainly slab and face climbing with an odd crack move thrown in. Passing the roof at about 30 feet the rock was a little rotten, and right at the end of the first pitch also. The crux was just below the only bolt on the first pitch. The second pitch (I assume it is Altered State's second pitch), goes back left off the anchors into the crack, and reaches the bolt. After the bolt, find the easiest route through the multitude of chickenheads to the old belay tree. Don't touch it as it WILL fall and probably destroy your bags at the bottom. The easiest exit at this point is to continue up the wide crack until you reach the living pine tree seen in the distance. A 70 meter rope will barely reach. If you have a shorter rope plan on rigging an anchor. From here a 4th class scramble up and left will get you on top of Betty's Altered Elbow for a series of raps down. First pitch probably deserves three stars as it was fun and had relatively good rock the entire way. Second pitch had quite a bit of rice-y rock, and sketchy gear (1/4" buttonhead included). The exit pitch (Probably the last pitch of Cheap Thrills) had a few fun squeeze/chimney moves mixed in with a lot of loose and dangerous rock. I would recommend only doing the first pitch until the bolt and belay station gets replaced, and even then I would recommend that you are confident before leading that second pitch.


20 or so feet right of Cheap Thrills, near the north end of the routes on the east side. Look for an easy crack system that cuts through the roof band.


There is a bolt and a piton on the first pitch and the second pitch has a bolt. Protection on the first pitch was standard rack. The second pitch had one good piece left of the anchors (largish cam), and a couple of micro nuts in a hollow flake system after the bolt. The climbing is easier but it is also kind of rotten, so be careful. The third pitch (exit pitch) needed really big gear. I had one piece that would work. It was also easy 5.6 or so. But the threat of rotten rock was everpresent. The runout rating I give is for the second pitch, although the first isn't well-protected.


We only did the first pitch and its worth the hike up there just for that. I really like this route. The pro is very solid when you get it. A 70M rope barely makes it back to the ground and left of the belay but you really need two ropes to TR it from there very effectively. There are nice anchors half way down to rap off with a 60. Sep 23, 2006
The first place for pro is a long way off the ground, then placements become more plentiful ... until the crack runs out. Feet are very reliable as the route briefly turns from a crack climb to a face climb. Some nice chickenheads left of the crack are welcome.

Wear your low gaiters for the hike up, or your shoes will fill up with bits of gravel. Sep 23, 2006
Stevie Nacho   Utah
This route sucks. Oct 12, 2009
Ben Folsom
Ben Folsom  
What are you talking about Cheesy Nacho?? You must have gotten bouted up there.
This is one of the classic routes for the grade in the Wasatch!! Nov 2, 2009
Stevie Nacho   Utah
"Bouted?" Hardly, I onsighted it. I actually climbed it again and still think it sucks. I guess I was disappointed because I heard it was one of the Wasatch classics for its grade and it didn't deliver. A bunch of other people I've spoke to think it blows also. Thanks for making fun of my name, buddy.

The Cheese. Nov 2, 2009
Ben Folsom
Ben Folsom  
Wow! don't take it so hard, I was only giving you some shit.

I felt the need to defend this quality route. "This route sucks" doesn't make any sense.

Long and varied climbing on good rock with good gear in a beautiful setting. Seems like it would be hard not to enjoy. Nov 2, 2009
electric lady land
d-know   electric lady land
it must not have
been a shirtless
coors swillin'

these things happen
when you get so
hard core.

classic lines just
dont live up to how
hard you are. Nov 2, 2009
does not suck. You know why you did it, looking down on it from above like that. It at least looks too good not to drop over there and do. Nov 2, 2009
Stevie Nacho   Utah
Mr. Ten,

I actually stared at the Wizards Chin for a long time. I looks as good as it is from my vantage. What a really enjoyable route. I climbed Altered States because I was already up there.
I heard you did "Fish for Brains." I promise to put a lower anchor on that second pitch. Sorry for being lazy and not getting around to it yet.

SN Nov 2, 2009
you masochistic bastard. BSmoot was talking about how incredibly awkward the Wizard's Chin is. You should write that up. Flared squeeze OW and chimneying. This comment qualifies everything you just said about Altered States.
The anchor we used on fish for brains was fine, had it not been for the 40 feet of scrub we had to crawl through to get there. We thought we were on something longer and kept looking around for other pitches, scratching our heads at the choss above and about TP's 4-star recommendation. Thank goodness TP saw us at the road and helped us see what we'd done instead. The first pitch is a keeper and Proudly done on lead, but what's the rusty bolt to the right? Nov 3, 2009
Stevie Nacho   Utah
Good point, Altered States is probably good. I wrote about the chin under the Magic Circus route.

We think that low bolt was an attempt up the water groove. After top-roping that line, we have concluded it unfinished. We couldn't find any type of protection in the blank rock above that low bolt. The climbing is "thugish" but fun. Nov 3, 2009
samg Gileadi  
Sucks... I dunno about that. Classic, I dunno about that either. Just my opinion. Wizard's Chin looks sweet. Nov 11, 2009
Stan Pitcher
  5.9 PG13
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
  5.9 PG13
The first pitch is good and long! If you want a better belay ledge continue to anchors for Romance (60m). Use long slings and/or run-out start to prevent rope drag. Save a finger sized cam for slightly run-out section below bolt (the pin is gone). Crack does not take many nuts. You may want doubles in 1-3 camalot, and finger and smaller sizes. You can get down in three raps with a 60 or 2 with a 70. Oct 19, 2011
Exciting, tenuous climbing! A single rack with doubles in the finger/off finger (.3-.5) sizes was perfect for me. The crux before the bolt is protected well by a pod that you cannot see from below with cams in the .3-.4 range, I would have been quite sad if I didn't have one available. well worth doing if you are up here! Apr 15, 2018