Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: Bill Robins, Skeeter Malinski, 1987
Page Views: 303 total · 2/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on Sep 17, 2005
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: On private land. Details
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

This route was really cool. On the left end of the slabs is this bolted line. The first bolt is low and easy to get to. The second bolt has a thin slabby area to work with. The pin between the two is missing. Climb to the roof, protect it, and surmount it. It is easier than it looks. Place a piece in the crack to your right, and run it out to the next mini-roof. pop this and head to your last bolt. The crux is protected by an old angle piton. I was able to slot 1 brass and 1 BD micro to help with the load. I am not sure which was the worst piece. The crux is reach and it is also very flaky again. What makes this rooute so good IMHO, is that it has 3 distinct and different areas of 10'ish climbing. The 2nd bolt slab-work, the roof after bolt 2, and the moves around the pin. Enjoy.

Protection

3 bolts + 1 pin and a 2 bolt anchor, now with chains. The other pin seems to be missing. Standard rack, heavy on the cams, as the cracks seem to flare a lot.

Photos