Type: Trad, 110 ft (33 m)
FA: Brent Barghahn
Page Views: 2,033 total · 55/month
Shared By: Brent Barghahn on Nov 7, 2018
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane

You & This Route

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Access Issue: On private land. Details
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

This Arch is So Metal!

Gravity is distorted up under this macro feature. You likely won't appreciate the steepness until the draws are hanging, seemingly outward from the wall. The stained black rock looms menacing and visible from anywhere up canyon.

Slayer climbs the left half of the enormous black arch on the Peeler south face. Kneebar shuffling and meaty underclinging on excellent rock. Head up the hill using a trail near the Stick Boulder. After a few minutes the boulder trail contours left - fork right into some talus hoping here and go up a steep trail past Cronin's arete. Follow this steep trail up to the toe of the cliff and then contour left on trail until just below the arch, take a small drainage up to the base. 20 minutes.

Brent B’s Total Body Workout

A 20’ strenuous and leaning 5.11 hand crack start gains a chockstone jug. Clip a high bolt, transition into power underclinging, and bust across fun underclinging with splitter kneebars. One funky move gains a scrunched no-hands chicken head stance - something like 12- to here and worthy in it's own. The intro is over, rest up for the last 30’, the volume is about to turn up to 11.

A few steep jams off the stance gain a flake hold where things turn to overhung and sequential kneebar shuffling or thin hands jamming. The crux maneuvers come as the foot holds steepen. Once the kneebars reappear, heroic power underclinging finishes out the flake. A unique transition to chimneying inside the arch allows a hidden anchor to be clipped at a no hands stance.

Bolts and Cams

Doubles #0.75-4 for the 5.11 bits
10 bolts for the difficulties
>40m of rope
Rubber Kneepads