Avg: 4 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, 110 ft (33 m)|
|Page Views:||1,552 total · 62/month|
|Shared By:||Brent Barghahn on Nov 7, 2018|
|Admins:||Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane|
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Slayer climbs the left half of the enormous black arch on the Peeler south face. Kneebar shuffling and meaty underclinging on excellent rock. Head up the hill using a trail near the Stick Boulder. After a few minutes the boulder trail contours left - fork right into some talus hoping here and go up a steep trail past Cronin's arete. Follow this steep trail up to the toe of the cliff and then contour left on trail until just below the arch, take a small drainage up to the base. 20 minutes.
A few steep jams off the stance gain a flake hold where things turn to overhung and sequential kneebar shuffling or thin hands jamming. The crux maneuvers come as the foot holds steepen. Once the kneebars reappear, heroic power underclinging finishes out the flake. A unique transition to chimneying inside the arch allows a hidden anchor to be clipped at a no hands stance.