Continue with onX Maps
Sign in with Facebook
All Locations >
Utah
> Wasatch Range
> Central Wasatch
> Little Cottonwo…
> Black Peeler Bu…
> S Face
Slayer
5.13d YDS 8b French 31 Ewbanks X UIAA 32 ZA E8 7a British
Avg: 4 from 2
votes
Routes in South Face
|
|
[Redacted] T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
|
[Redacted] S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
|
|
American Coot T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13 |
|
|
Better Than Bikinis T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
|
|
Daffy's Shaft T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
|
|
Dark of the Moon S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
|
|
Duck A L'Orange T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
|
|
Duck Soup to Missing Duck to Cooter to Father's Day T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
|
|
Duck Waddle Variation T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
|
|
Fool's Paradise T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
Frozen Stool T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
|
|
Great Grebes, Batman! T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
|
|
Hornet, The A2 |
|
|
Megadeth T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
|
|
No Chicken Slab S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
|
|
Pied-Billed Grebe S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
|
|
Playing In The Sun T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
|
|
Power Wedgie S V3 6A |
|
|
Ruddy Duck T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X |
|
|
Slayer T 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
|
|
Sportsman's Paradise T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
|
|
Thirstier Than Thongs T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
|
|
Uglier Than Underoos T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Via Duck S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Walking the Duck T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
|
|
Western Grebe T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
|
|
Western Grebe Mantel Var. S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Why a Duck? S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
Order Wrong?
Sort Routes
| Type: | Trad, 110 ft (33 m) |
| FA: | Brent Barghahn |
| Page Views: | 3,144 total · 44/month |
| Shared By: | Brent Barghahn on Nov 7, 2018 |
| Admins: | Perin Blanchard, GRK, D Crane |
Your To-Do List:
Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: On private land.
Details
The land on which sits Black Peeler Buttress is owned by Perpetual Storage perpetualstorage.com/index_….
Be respectful of private property.
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
This Arch is So Metal!
Gravity is distorted up under this macro feature. You likely won't appreciate the steepness until the draws are hanging, seemingly outward from the wall. The stained black rock looms menacing and visible from anywhere up canyon.
Slayer climbs the left half of the enormous black arch on the Peeler south face. Kneebar shuffling and meaty underclinging on excellent rock. Head up the hill using a trail near the Stick Boulder. After a few minutes the boulder trail contours left - fork right into some talus hoping here and go up a steep trail past Cronin's arete. Follow this steep trail up to the toe of the cliff and then contour left on trail until just below the arch, take a small drainage up to the base. 20 minutes.
Slayer climbs the left half of the enormous black arch on the Peeler south face. Kneebar shuffling and meaty underclinging on excellent rock. Head up the hill using a trail near the Stick Boulder. After a few minutes the boulder trail contours left - fork right into some talus hoping here and go up a steep trail past Cronin's arete. Follow this steep trail up to the toe of the cliff and then contour left on trail until just below the arch, take a small drainage up to the base. 20 minutes.
Brent B’s Total Body Workout
A 20’ strenuous and leaning 5.11 hand crack start gains a chockstone jug. Clip a high bolt, transition into power underclinging, and bust across fun underclinging with splitter kneebars. One funky move gains a scrunched no-hands chicken head stance - something like 12- to here and worthy in it's own. The intro is over, rest up for the last 30’, the volume is about to turn up to 11.
A few steep jams off the stance gain a flake hold where things turn to overhung and sequential kneebar shuffling or thin hands jamming. The crux maneuvers come as the foot holds steepen. Once the kneebars reappear, heroic power underclinging finishes out the flake. A unique transition to chimneying inside the arch allows a hidden anchor to be clipped at a no hands stance.
A few steep jams off the stance gain a flake hold where things turn to overhung and sequential kneebar shuffling or thin hands jamming. The crux maneuvers come as the foot holds steepen. Once the kneebars reappear, heroic power underclinging finishes out the flake. A unique transition to chimneying inside the arch allows a hidden anchor to be clipped at a no hands stance.
4 Comments