Type: Trad, 215 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Mark Bennett, Thomas Koch, Bill Robins 1987
Page Views: 965 total · 9/month
Shared By: Ben Folsom on Jun 27, 2010
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: On private land. Details
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

Pitch 1- From the belay boulders climb up, then right around the edge of the first steep wall. Move back left and set up a belay with gear. (5.6)
Pitch 2- Climb a steep boulder problem near the right edge of the next steep wall splitting the slabs. Above the boulder problem bulge, easier climbing leads up a right leaning dihedral. At the top of the dihedral, move back left on easy slab to a belay anchor below the next thin roof crack. (5.11)
Pitch 3- Climb the next roof using the thin crack which widens slightly at the lip. As it says in the Ruckman Guide, "a mini separate reality". Above the roof, I continued up and right past a bolt to a belay anchor on a slab. (5.10) -the original belay atop this pitch was in a group of trees. Those trees are now dead and could probably be easily pulled out. Better to belay up and right at the bolt anchor.

Location

To the right of Western Grebe is an area of slabs divided by steep walls and roofs. Scramble up and go right along a steep wall until reaching a nice belay spot in boulders.

Protection

A set of cams from small tcu's to about #3 camalot size. Stoppers.

Photos