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Routes in South Face

Better Than Bikinis T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Bull Dykes and Biker Ducks S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Daffy's Shaft T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Dark of the Moon S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Duck A L'Orange T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Duck Waddle Variation T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Fool's Paradise S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Frozen Stool T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Great Grebes, Batman! T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Hornet, The A2
Pied-Billed Grebe S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Playing In The Sun T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Ruddy Duck T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Sportsman's Paradise T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Via Duck S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Walking the Duck T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Western Grebe T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Western Grebe Mantel Var. S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Why a Duck? S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 115 ft
FA: Bill Robins, Kirsten Davis, 1985
Page Views: 934 total, 6/month
Shared By: grk10vq on Oct 15, 2004
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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On private land. Details
Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

Prepare the utility belt. Excellent slabbing up a "connect the dots" face. A slab of big and small crystals, Great Grebes Batman! is exciting. With multiply cruxes, the nature of this line lends some great rests between eerie movement! The crux lies high in an obvious blank section.

Begin about 7 feet right off the third belay of Western Grebe. Aim for the bolt about 12 feet off the ledge. A set of serious, committing moves gets you off climbing. Pass a few big chicken heads, pull a mantle and bounce around a bit. Work your way through a small crux and aim for the obvious line. Slab out the finish on easier, low-angle terrain. Finish at a chain anchor.

Hand drilled on lead, this route will not disappoint.
Classic Little Cottonwood - Classic Bill Robins.

Protection

Three draws, a thin runner for slinging a chickenhead after bolt two and a grappling hook?
Two draws for the anchors.

Location

From the base of the final pitch of Western Grebe are 4 bolted lines. This is 2nd line from the east. When climbed as a finish, this makes for a great alternative to the final pitch of Western Grebe or any other route for that matter.

Photos

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zoso
 
zoso  
 
I'd add a .5, .75, or #1 BD cam to the list. There's a crack for gear before the last crux. Even with this placement, I wouldn't call the route super safe. Love the old-school barely-safe routes. The quality is on par with DOTM to it's right. May 4, 2013