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Routes in South Face

Better Than Bikinis T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Bull Dykes and Biker Ducks S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Daffy's Shaft T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Dark of the Moon S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Duck A L'Orange T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Duck Waddle Variation T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Fool's Paradise S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Frozen Stool T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Great Grebes, Batman! T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Hornet, The A2
Pied-Billed Grebe S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Playing In The Sun T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Ruddy Duck T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Sportsman's Paradise T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Via Duck S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Walking the Duck T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Western Grebe T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Western Grebe Mantel Var. S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Why a Duck? S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 110 ft
FA: Those that can't read a topo
Page Views: 230 total, 3/month
Shared By: zoso on Aug 23, 2011
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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On private land. Details
Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

Perfect beginner trad lead. Plenty of gear and easy climbing. Climb a R-facing dihedral, slab, then move up and right over blocks. Make an anchor and walk off. Or traverse over to chains on Daffy's Shaft.

This climbs the dihedral left of Daffy's Shaft, traversing a bit right at the end to climb the roof through a weakness. The route is not difficult to climb or protect, with some slabby sections where the crack helps and other areas, that you really don't need the crack. The rock is rather good, and the climbing varied.

Location

Dihedral left of Daffy's Shaft. Its Pretty obvious.

Protection

Large gear down low, and it thins out to small to medium gear up top. #1 camalot protects the exit move very well. There is a 1 bolt 1 bush anchor. Two ropes for the rappel or 1 60-meter rope and some downclimbing. Standard rack- Nothing bigger than #2 camalot.

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