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Routes in South Face

Better Than Bikinis T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Bull Dykes and Biker Ducks S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Daffy's Shaft T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Dark of the Moon S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Duck A L'Orange T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Duck Waddle Variation T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Fool's Paradise S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Frozen Stool T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Great Grebes, Batman! T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Hornet, The A2
Megadeth T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pied-Billed Grebe S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Playing In The Sun T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Ruddy Duck T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Sportsman's Paradise T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Via Duck S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Walking the Duck T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Western Grebe T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Western Grebe Mantel Var. S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Why a Duck? S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Bill Foster, Pete Lenz, Doug Fuller, 1998
Page Views: 1,339 total · 8/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on Oct 15, 2004
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

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Access Issue: On private land. Details
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details


On the slab above and just left of Via Duck are 2 bolted routes. This is the right one. Fun moves up the slab get you to a large ledge. If linked with Via Duckit gains 2 stars.


3 draws and 2 more for the chains.


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I got a bit nervous on this route. There is a (slabby)ground-fall risk due to the run out between bolts 2 and 3. Since the route eases up considerably before the run out, I wouldn't say this is an R but if 5.8 is near the upper end of your slab-climbing leading ability (like it is for myself), you may want to consider another route. On the plus side, if you do peel at bolt 3, you have a large oaky bush/trees to break your fall. Jul 29, 2009
Peter Lenz
Salt Lake City
Peter Lenz   Salt Lake City
Hi Guys and Gals,
The guide book calls Viaduct and Why a Duck "contrived, " and that is absolutely correct. We "contrived" to create a couple of relatively safe, easier slab climbs, and here was some prime real estate. They are squeezed, for sure. Call it "grid bolting," if you will, but remember that these routes were drilled by hand, on lead, (as were most, if not all of the routes in this area.) Every bolt required hard work to place. Regarding the names: see "Night at the Opera" by the Marx Brothers.
Pete Lenz
Oct 3, 2010

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