Type: Sport, 150 ft
FA: Scott Keller, Chris Begue 1995
Page Views: 548 total · 3/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on Oct 15, 2004
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

23 Opinions

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Access Issue: On private land. Details
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details


Dark of the Moon climbs the east-most, nicely bolted route from the base of the last pitch of Western Grebe. Solid slabbing, probably one of the best on the Peelers.


8 draws for the route, and a small piece or two for the beginning. Two 60 meter ropes or one 70 for the rappel.


Just did Western Grebe to Fools Paradise to what I thought was Dark of the Moon. I've heard the topo in the Ruckman guide mislabeles it and it felt that way. It's a hard area to draw a topo for - with all the broken ledges. Don't know about the grade either. It seemed about right, but the pitches to get to it seemed soft. This was the best route we did, and I'd imagine one of the best on the Peeler. Kudos to Scott and Chris for putting in lots of bolts. I assume it was done on lead.

This puts it at 8 bolts long with lots of long runners to keep drag down. Oct 1, 2005
This route was put up by Scott Keller and Chris Begue and is the best protected 5.10 slab in the canyon. If it were in Green A it would be done every day it was dry and not scorching hot. Jun 11, 2006
Salt Lake City, UT
triznuty   Salt Lake City, UT
What an experience to do this climb in the Light of the Moon. The knobs and chickenheads are amazing.

Don't worry, the second bolt is up there...

Classic LCC slabbin! Oct 25, 2007
Boissal .
Small Lake, UT
Boissal .   Small Lake, UT
Easily one of the best slabs in the canyon. Steep, well bolted, killer setting.
One 70m rope will barely make it down to the belay ledge. Watch the ends...
To get off do a 2 ropes rap to the top of the 2nd pitch of Western Grebbe (straight down fool's paradise) then another one to the base.

Edit: now goes with single 70m raps. Sep 4, 2008
Crag Turkey
Holladay, UT
Crag Turkey   Holladay, UT
Never climbed little cottonwood 10c slab clean until this route, likely due to the awesome chicken heads and reasonable bolts. lots of respect for the bolting effort on this, very well thought out. the position, chicken heads, lack of people and overall quality make this one of my favorite slab routes in the canyon. Usually slab pitches can feel like a means to an end, but this is totally worth the approach. May 31, 2017
Greyson   SLC, UT
What an amazing slab, very well bolted by little cottonwood standards which makes it a great intro to 5.10 slab. With 80 meter cord, we linked the first two pitches of Western Grebe then proceeded to link Fool's Paradise into Dark of the Moon. Rope drag wasn't too bad so long as you strategically use double length slings and skip a bolt here and there. If confident at the grade bring two double length slings, 12 alpine draws along with a couple more long quick draws. Gear wise, all you need is a small set of cams (.1 to .5 BD) and a set of nuts. Oct 23, 2017
Sir Camsalot
thankgodchickenhead, Ut
Sir Camsalot   thankgodchickenhead, Ut
This is an awesome slab! Go climb this! Oct 27, 2017