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Routes in South Face

Better Than Bikinis T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Bull Dykes and Biker Ducks S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Daffy's Shaft T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Dark of the Moon S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Duck A L'Orange T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Duck Waddle Variation T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Fool's Paradise S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Frozen Stool T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Great Grebes, Batman! T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Hornet, The A2
Megadeth T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pied-Billed Grebe S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Playing In The Sun T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Ruddy Duck T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Sportsman's Paradise T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Via Duck S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Walking the Duck T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Western Grebe T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Western Grebe Mantel Var. S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Why a Duck? S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Brent Barghahn and Curtis Allred, 2018
Page Views: 195 total · 60/month
Shared By: Brent Barghahn on Jun 14, 2018
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: On private land. Details
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

This is a free climbing variation to the Black Arch (A3) aid line. The free climbing extends well past where the aid breaks upward and is worthy as it's own route.

Start on the slabs at the right side of the arch. Thinner initial jams get you started, then it is all hands! The hand crack goes up, straight across, and then a bit down to the anchor. One of the more sustained hand cracks in LCC. 

The anchor is up inside the flare at the obvious flake stance.

This route heavily seeps in the spring.

Location

Megadeth climbs the right half of the enormous black arch on the Peeler south face. This arch is very obvious, even from the road. Follow the Peeler trail until just below the arch, take a small drainage up to gain the right side of the slab tier below the arch. 

Protection

Single rack 0.5-4, triples 2 & 3

Photos

Love this: "One of the more sustained hand cracks in LCC." Jun 18, 2018

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