PRINT: Rock Climb Megadeth, Little Cottonwood Canyon

Megadeth

5.11c, Trad, 50 ft (15 m),

Avg: 3.3 from 4 votes
FA: Brent Barghahn and Curtis Allred, 2018
Utah > Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Little Cottonwo… > Black Peeler Bu… > S Face

Access Issue: On private land. Details

The land on which sits Black Peeler Buttress is owned by Perpetual Storage perpetualstorage.com/index_….

Be respectful of private property.

Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing

June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.

The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.

Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.

Read More:

saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…

SLCA and AF recreational leased area on LDS Church land

One Steep Handcrack

This is a free climbing variation to the Black Arch (A3) aid line. The free climbing extends well past where the aid breaks upward and is worthy as it's own route.

Start on the slabs at the right side of the arch. Thinner initial jams get you started, then it is all hands! The hand crack goes up, straight across, and then a bit down to the anchor. One of the more sustained hand cracks in LCC.

The anchor is up inside the flare at the obvious flake stance.

This route heavily seeps in the spring.

Look for a Huge Arch

Megadeth climbs the right half of the enormous black arch on the Peeler south face. This arch is very obvious, even from the road. Head up the hill using a trail near the Stick Boulder. Follow the steep trail to the toe of the cliff and then contour left on trail from until just below the arch, take a small drainage up to the base. 20 minutes.