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Routes in South Face

Better Than Bikinis T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Bull Dykes and Biker Ducks S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Daffy's Shaft T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Dark of the Moon S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Duck A L'Orange T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Duck Waddle Variation T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Fool's Paradise S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Frozen Stool T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Great Grebes, Batman! T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Hornet, The A2
Pied-Billed Grebe S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Playing In The Sun T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Ruddy Duck T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Sportsman's Paradise T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Via Duck S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Walking the Duck T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Western Grebe T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Western Grebe Mantel Var. S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Why a Duck? S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport
FA: Pete Lenz & Doug Fuller
Page Views: 2,071 total, 14/month
Shared By: triznuty on May 14, 2005
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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On private land. Details
Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

Great 3rd pitch var. for Western Grebe.Climb up a good corner with a crack that protects well, pull the small roof up onto a slab that follows a bolt protected dihedral, pull another small roof onto another slab and up to a great ledge, then run up some more easy slabs to a 2 chain anchor shared w/Western Grebe.

Protection

A cam or two for the beginning and maybe one for the upper slab and 5 bolts.

Photos

Boissal
Small Lake, UT
  5.10-
Boissal   Small Lake, UT
  5.10-
Craig Martin wrote:You still need 2 ropes to rap from the top of the 3rd pitch of Western Grebe. This new anchor changes nothing in that regard.
Now goes with a single 70m via a few new anchors... Apr 11, 2016
Garrett C
SL,UT
Garrett C   SL,UT
Ya just wasnt sure as line was so closely bolted then randomly stops and was unable to see any sort of direction to go in. Definitely lots of rappel stations it seemed, chains all over the rocks around this pitch. Oct 27, 2013
Yep straight up til you hit the anchors. You can plug a few pieces if you want. There are now rap stations everywhere. A 70m gets you down easy and a 60m should work just fine. Oct 27, 2013
Sir Camsalot
thankgodchickenhead, Ut
Sir Camsalot   thankgodchickenhead, Ut
Straight up the easier slabs, maybe 50 feet. Anchors are there but you need two ropes to rap from this point. Oct 27, 2013
Garrett C
SL,UT
Garrett C   SL,UT
Can anyone offer some insight to getting to the anchors of this climb? We got to the last bolt above the roof but no chains were in sight. Do you keep running out the rope by going north up the shallow slabs? Oct 26, 2013
Sir Camsalot
thankgodchickenhead, Ut
Sir Camsalot   thankgodchickenhead, Ut
Then WTF? Man this is getting bad. Nov 4, 2010
Craig Martin
Park City
  5.9+
Craig Martin   Park City
  5.9+
You still need 2 ropes to rap from the top of the 3rd pitch of Western Grebe. This new anchor changes nothing in that regard. Nov 4, 2010
Sir Camsalot
thankgodchickenhead, Ut
Sir Camsalot   thankgodchickenhead, Ut
Probably another convience rap anchor. It used to require 2 ropes to rap from the top of Fools Paradise / Western Grebe. I climbed it late spring and the anchor wasn't there. Not a bad idea as this was the only pitch on those link ups you needed 2 ropes to rap.

Looks like these aren't the only new bolts going in up here. I honestly didn't think this area could be any more overbolted than it already was. Nov 4, 2010
Craig Martin
Park City
  5.9+
Craig Martin   Park City
  5.9+
Shiny new 2 bolt anchor with chains found at the base of Fools Paradise on 11/3/10. It is aproximately 15' from the anchor at the top of Western Grebe 2nd pitch. Does anyone know how long it has been there? Is it a replacement of an old bolted anchor? Nov 4, 2010
PeterSLenz
Salt Lake City
PeterSLenz   Salt Lake City
Hi Guys and Gals,
Many years ago, Doug Fuller and I (two climbers of little talent inspired by the late, great Bill Robins) wanted to try our hand at bolting on lead, and drilling by hand. We also wanted to create routes we could do when we were old and decrepit (I'm almost there, now.) The results were Why a Duck and Viaduct (which the guidebook correctly terms, "contrived,") and also Fools Paradise. If the latter seems overbolted, I apologize.
The profusion of bolts reflects our desire to create a safe route, and also my indecision about where the route was going (over the roof vs up the slab.) Each bolt required 20 or so minutes of hand drilling. Once the hole was started, I could stabilize myself with the drill bit serving as a "hold." None of it was rappel bolted, and the climb was near my leading limit.
Pete Lenz Oct 3, 2010
triznuty
Salt Lake City, UT
 
triznuty   Salt Lake City, UT
 
Me thinks the pitch marked as DOTM in the Ruckman's Guide, is really the 2nd pitch of Fool's.. Sep 26, 2006
triznuty
Salt Lake City, UT
 
triznuty   Salt Lake City, UT
 
There are two ways to do this pitch (1st pitch)... One is pulling the roof of the curving dihedral onto another slab just below the big ledge with the tree -- This is done after the 4th bolt. There's a bolt just over the roof. Clip it and head up. The other follows a couple more bolts out right and then meets up by the tree.

Not sure which is the direct and which is the variation..? But both ways are good choices for this pitch. One offers a nice little roof, while the other keeps to the slabbin. Sep 25, 2006
tenesmus  
 
Steve is right about being a good pitch for a beginning .10 leader. Really fun moves in the middle part of that shallow dihedral. Edges and smearing everywhere. Jul 23, 2006
Nathan Fisher
  5.10b PG13
Nathan Fisher  
  5.10b PG13
1st pitch was fun, but the real excitement came from pitch 2, which is the 2nd set of bolts from the west. I believe the 2nd pitch also had three bolts. Set up slings around the tree for the anchor, and continue up to the chains. Also, the rappell off requires 2 60-meter ropes. 2 50 meter ropes are a bit short and require some down-climbing, and there is a knot-grabbing dead tree on this rappell. Watch it. Jun 10, 2006
Tea
Tea  
Second pitch off the final ledge is good..though I am sure not climbed much..so expect a little rice. Mar 23, 2006
tenesmus  
 
This is a fun way to get up to Dark of the Moon. Oct 30, 2005
triznuty
Salt Lake City, UT
 
triznuty   Salt Lake City, UT
 
Sorry, the description for this route was for the first pitch only. This climb does have a second one, which is worth doing if you're up on DOTM. 2nd pitch embarks upon the final slab which leads directly to the pine tree, sporting 2 bolts and gear for the anchors or a short bushy down climb to the beginning of the pitch. Jun 7, 2005