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Routes in South Face

Better Than Bikinis T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Bull Dykes and Biker Ducks S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Daffy's Shaft T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Dark of the Moon S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Duck A L'Orange T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Duck Waddle Variation T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Fool's Paradise S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Frozen Stool T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Great Grebes, Batman! T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Hornet, The A2
Pied-Billed Grebe S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Playing In The Sun T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Ruddy Duck T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Sportsman's Paradise T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Via Duck S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Walking the Duck T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Western Grebe T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Western Grebe Mantel Var. S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Why a Duck? S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 460 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Bill Robins, Kirsten Davis, 1985
Page Views: 3,734 total, 23/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on Oct 15, 2004
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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On private land. Details
Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description


Pitch 1: Climb the left route on the slab just above Via Duck and directly left of Why a Duck. Bolts to a chain anchor.

Pitch 2: Head for the roof, angles around it to the west, and then slab up that face passing four bolts. Finish at an anchor below a tree.

Pitch 3: Climb up to the roof system just east of the belay station. It avoids the roof by going left and works up too and past a small bush. Here work left towards your only bolt (hidden until you are on top of it). At this point start angling right until you attain some ledges. Place your final piece and run up the 30 foot runout but easy face. Rope drag can be a problem on this pitch and is especially hard when you are runout on a slab. Use your runners. Finish at a chain anchor on a ledge.

Pitch 4: This pitch clips the lowest bolt of the east-most of the 4 bolted routes that come off this station. You can place some small to medium gear in the flake system first. Clip the bolt and continue angling right until you attain a nice layback flake that you work for 60 feet. Turn the corner and scramble the easy and dirty v-slot. (Hate those bushes!!) Finally the anchors are to your left. 2 good bolts, but whoever was replacing the bolts must have run out of hangers, as one of the bolts has the original home-made hanger on it still.

Descent: 2 double rope raps or 2 singles get you down. Beware of the bushes that WILL snag your rope as you pull it down from the second rap.

A nice route with some nice sections, however it suffers from inconsistency, a bad line, and a really ugly finish. The 3rd pitch also bites most of the way. So, having said that, there are other pitches to substitute for P3 and P4. Pitch 4 substitution: Great Grebes, Batman or Dark of the Moon.

Protection


Pitch 1: 3 or 4 draws 2 for the chains

Pitch 2: 4 draws + 2 for the chains

Pitch 3: 1 draw + 2 for the chains + A small to medium rack

Pitch 4: 1 draw + 2 for the chains + standard rack, cams seemed pretty useful up to a #2 Camalot
Crag Turkey
Holladay, UT
 
Crag Turkey   Holladay, UT
 
Great route! Pitch three being the dumpiest of the 4 as others have mentioned. That being said, if you're not in the mood for fools or it's Tuesday not a bad exploration. 4th pitch was too wet when I did it, so I opted for Dark side, but looks quality. would call the R sections of pitch three no harder than 5.6, not worth getting scared off unless you have a hard time with easy exposure that is tough to protect. May 31, 2017
Thaddeus VanDenBerghe
Salt Lake Sizzle, Utah
 
Thaddeus VanDenBerghe   Salt Lake Sizzle, Utah
 
First two pitches can be linked together with a 70m with about 20 feet of rope to spare. Look for the bomber anchors to the east (just above) the big bush at top of p2 (go right of bush)
Can be done with just QD's and Alpine draws (like 15?), and is an efficient way to get to the upper pitches of the Black Peeler. Ratchet up the mantle variation to really get your heart racing.

While belaying your second, look over at the East Gate Buttress and plan your future approach up to the rad looking Flakes route! Sep 12, 2016
Boissal
Small Lake, UT
  5.8 PG13
Boissal   Small Lake, UT
  5.8 PG13
P4 is definitely worthy if you find yourself tired of slabbing. It goes all natural with a bit of faith. Don't let the grass growing in a couple spots in the crack deter you! Apr 11, 2016
Matt Steubing
Salt Lake City, Utah
Matt Steubing   Salt Lake City, Utah
Video of Halloween 2014 climb up the first couple pitches of Western Grebe. My first climb in over 18 months after shoulder surgery.

youtu.be/Cn4-s3FBYu8 Nov 20, 2014
I spoke to one of the Perpetual Storage guys this year that was down by the boxes near the road and he said they don't care if climbers use the first portion of the road to access climbing. He just requested that climbers stay on the trail and stay off the old road where it takes the first switchback. Sep 18, 2014
Ken H
Granite, UT
Ken H   Granite, UT
It goes without saying in LCC but watch out for rattle snakes and it seems especially here. My wife found one last year in a crack at the back of the big ledge below the start of Western Grebe and I almost stuck my hand on one last night after finishing the rappels. They like to hang out in the cracks on and around the peeler until the temperature is right to come out.

Also it seems the no trespassing signs are escalating. It seems to me there are more signs and new sign along with more no parking signs. Reviewing the Salt Lake County zoning website the majority of the Peeler is on LDS Church property (same parcel [ID 29-08-100-002-0000] as Gate Buttress) but the approach road is on PERPETUAL STORAGE INC's land. If climbers were to park 0.3 miles down canyon of the power house and approach from there to the Northwest then access would only be on LDS church property. I don't know if this would be feasible or reasonable to the LDS Church. Sep 17, 2014
First pitch is stupid easy now with the retro bolting. Zero commitment. Second pitch is also sporting a new bolt, 5 total. A 60m won't make it to the top of the 1st pitch when rapping from the 2nd anymore after someone moved the chains higher to the base of the dihedral. Have to rap off the ends and walk to the chains. Yeah sure, it's a big ledge, but still. Why fix shit that isn't broken people? May 6, 2014
boulderkeith
Boulder, CO
  5.8
boulderkeith   Boulder, CO
  5.8
Fyi, if you are considering Better Than Bikinis (not in Mountain Project but adjacent to Western Grebe), there are still wasps in the pin scars in the dihedral as of ~09/23/2012. Oct 1, 2012
boulderkeith
Boulder, CO
  5.8
boulderkeith   Boulder, CO
  5.8
I did this route about a week ago while visiting. We rapped from the P3 anchors with a single 60m directly down. (did not do P4 due to the single rope). It was sketchy to say the least as you had to reach down to clip the anchor and then rap off the ends (while hanging onto them so you don't lose the rope). Rapping with a single 60m thus is not recommended despite the T.C. guidebook indicating all raps less than 100'. Got to think that rap station could have been 2m higher... Oct 1, 2012
g whiz pete, i thought better of you...do you hate fun or something? and safety? really, what, are you a doctor or something?

a piece of advice to the rest of you who have such negative things to say to these people, YOU are what give climbers a bad name and i hate that i become guilty by association.

GROW UP!!! Nov 16, 2010
bsmoot  
Peter:

Thanks for posting up. I can see your point about safety. As I get older, It's something I do consider as I have also had friends hurt or killed climbing.

But...I would really like to know that if I'm climbing a Bill Robins route that it will be his, and his only. He had a great, low impact traditional type style of climbing. I hope everyone can respect his routes. Nov 9, 2010
triznuty
Salt Lake City, UT
 
triznuty   Salt Lake City, UT
 
Just a follow up to my above comment. After much consideration. I still feel that the new bolts must go. We need to protect our long standing heritage around these parts of bold climbing.. There is plenty of new and even older routes that are plenty safe for most around here.. It's ok to back away for another day. Don't be selfish and think, gull why didn't they (FA) add some more bolts for me and this route should be safe for me. It's no secret that we (climbers) are a selfish bunch. But let's not start the attitude that the climbing world revolves around me... Nov 8, 2010
triznuty
Salt Lake City, UT
 
triznuty   Salt Lake City, UT
 
My friends of the Wasatch. In light of some new information presented to me tonight. I ask that we should hold off removing anything from Via duck and Western grebe until all things are considered. I know what you're thinking.. WTF is he talking about?? Well I got in touch with who I believe is Peter Lenz this evening. And he shared some very interesting information with me. So out of respect, we need to considered somethings first before any action is taken (if it's not already too late). Even if we don't fully agree with it.
It's late and I'd like to sort a couple things out first before I post any further details.

Thank you Nov 6, 2010
Bill Huggins
Draper, UT
Bill Huggins   Draper, UT
Additional bolts? WTF? If true these bolts are neither wanted nor needed and should be yanked and the holes patched.

To whomever is doing this (I wooonder whooo it cooould be? Tony?) please eat shit and die, or go be the bane of a climbing community somewhere else, preferably far from Utah. Nov 3, 2010
Craig Martin
Park City
  5.8
Craig Martin   Park City
  5.8
This route has always been a good, pretty safe by LCC standards, multi pitch cruise. It is now a full on "Pleasure Climb" thanks to the addition of several new bolts. I have not been on this route in years but it certainly did not have this many bolts when I last did it. Some of the bolts still had the rock dust and I swear during the time it took us to climb the route several more new bolts showed up on the Via Duck variation at the bottom. Nov 3, 2010
Mark D Evans
Sandy, UT
 
Mark D Evans   Sandy, UT
 
This route can be rappelled with one 70m rope, barely. Rapping the 3rd pitch brings you to a bush with a couple of super suspect pieces of webbing about 30ft above the anchors of the 2nd pitch. (no rap rings) I left a nut, a sling, and a 'biner to back it up. This may be an option, but I think adding a more secure rap station would be nice.

On a lighter note, I think this is some of the best slab of it's grade in the canyon! Due to the lack of use, it is in need of some ex foliation, but is still a stellar route. Especially with the different options you can choose from on the 3rd and 4th pitches. Do the mantle variation it's wicked fun!! Oct 17, 2007
John Evans  
 
This is such a classic route. My wife and I's most climbed route in the Wasatch. Quiet, clean, multipitch, with fun variations on the top two pitches. Recently, a storm washed the rack-up boulder at the base into the scrub oak. Must have been A LOT of water coming down that corner! Aug 20, 2007
triznuty
Salt Lake City, UT
 
triznuty   Salt Lake City, UT
 
I haven't been on the 3rd pitch yet (Edit-I have done the 3rd pitch now and would say, do Fools Paradise instead), but the final pitch (I think it's considered the final pitch of Western Grebe??), which is a sweet crack (offers hands and fingers). Excellent,a must do! It's a nice change of pace from the slabs... You'll probably need a standard rack for this pitch. I recall placing Sm-Med cams, and maybe a small nut just above the little roof.


(You can't see the crack from the anchors) From the 3 bolt anchor, head up and mainly right on the huge chicken heads, clipping the first bolt of DOTM (I think or one of those bolts on the slab...or run it out) keep heading right... Once over the hump, you should see the corner with the crack off to your right. The rest is obvious, get into the corner and follow the crack up. Pull a little roof half way, then continue up to some trees. From here it seems like I found some anchors (may of been DOTM's anchors) to get me back down to the bottom of the pitch.

If you know where to look, you can see this crack from the Pentapitch parking area. Sep 25, 2006
tenesmus  
 
Steve's right. no R. Great way to get up and off the deck for the .8 leader. Best way to get to Dark of the Moon. Jul 23, 2006
Pitch 3 is runout. It is easy, but a fall could and probably would result in injury. If you had negotiated all the climbing below, the chances of you falling are slim, but.... Jul 7, 2006
Tea
Tea  
Don't be fooled...the first pitches are not R, only the third, which is crappy anyway. Do the first two, to the shallow fools paradise dihedral, then up! Try some of the older runout routes to keep you humble.... YIKES! Mar 23, 2006
Sheldon Sabbatini
Salt Lake City, Utah
Sheldon Sabbatini   Salt Lake City, Utah
I haven't climbed all summer and I'm definitely feeling it in the muscles. Harder sections followed by some easier sections to rest up. Good all around mix. I loved the view of the masses of cars parked at Gate...and we didn't see another person until we started rapping down. Oct 17, 2004