Mountain Project Logo

Routes in South Face

Better Than Bikinis T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Bull Dykes and Biker Ducks S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Daffy's Shaft T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Dark of the Moon S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Duck A L'Orange T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Duck Waddle Variation T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Fool's Paradise S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Frozen Stool T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Great Grebes, Batman! T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Hornet, The A2
Pied-Billed Grebe S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Playing In The Sun T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Ruddy Duck T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Sportsman's Paradise T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Via Duck S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Walking the Duck T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Western Grebe T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Western Grebe Mantel Var. S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Why a Duck? S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 480 ft, 5 pitches
FA: Tony Calderone, John Lane 2009
Page Views: 210 total · 13/month
Shared By: zoso on Nov 2, 2016
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


3 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
On private land. Details
Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

A well protected Tony route? Yup. This is just left of Western Grebe and climbs for 5 pitches total (if the definition of "pitch" includes steep walking heh heh).

I'd recommend pitches 1 and 2 with P2 being the $$. The others aren't as good as P3 and P4 of WG.

P1: Pad up to 2 bolts and maybe a cam until the angle eases. There's a 2 bolt anchor here for some reason (to rap with a 60m?) but it is lacking chains. Keep going until you are just below the obvious ledge and clip the chains. 5.7. This made more sense than what the topo shows imo.

P2: Best pitch by far. This is the R-facing dihedral on the same slab as WG P2. All gear; micros to #2 C4. The book shows 2 pins, I saw none. I used a #2 Lowball on one stretch where the crack was too thin/parallel for anything else. Corner can be a bit wet. 5.8?

P3: Look for a bolt at a weakness through a roof. The rock is pretty grungy here and there's a loose block that can be easily avoided (please trundle). Clip the bolt and make an awkward move right. Ramble up to a bolt, gear, then chains.

P4 Option 1: 3 bolts/gear straight up. When you hit a dirty ledge, cut left a bit for 20 more feet of 5.7 slab with a bolt. Look for a rusty anchor sitting in a water runnel. This anchor would be much much nicer if it were 2 feet higher. Weird.

P4 Option 2: Cut hard left to a slab with a lone bolt. Join the above option at the dirty ledge.

P5: Kinda silly really. Walk (class 5...I guess) straight up low angle slab. Kinda tempting though as it's good rock versus the last 2 pitches.

Location

Slab just left of WG.
All anchors are chains and the whole route can be rapped with 1 rope. If using a 60m, use the anchors for WG instead for the last rap to terra firma.

Protection

Micros to #2 C4. I was glad I had a #2 Loweball, but a good climber might be fine without such.

Photos

- No Photos -
greggrylls
Salt Lake City
  5.8-
greggrylls   Salt Lake City
  5.8-
The last "pitch" is great if you've always wished your treadmill inclined just a bit more.

The other pitches are good. Careful where you stand their was some water seeping by the belays. Nov 6, 2016

More About Better Than Bikinis

Printer-Friendly Guide