Type: Trad, 480 ft (145 m), 5 pitches
FA: Tony Calderone, John Lane 2009
Page Views: 1,394 total · 15/month
Shared By: zoso on Nov 2, 2016
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D Crane

You & This Route

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Description Suggest change

A well protected Tony route? Yup. This is just left of Western Grebe and climbs for 5 pitches total.

I'd recommend pitches 1 and 2 with P2 being the $$. The others aren't as good as P3 and P4 of WG.

P1: Pad up to 2 bolts and maybe a cam until the angle eases. There's a 2 bolt anchor here for some reason (to rap with a 60m?) but it is lacking chains. Keep going until you are just below the obvious ledge and clip the chains. 5.7. This made more sense than what the topo shows imo.

P2: Best pitch by far. This is the R-facing dihedral on the same slab as WG P2. All gear; micros to #2 C4. The book shows 2 pins, I saw none. I used a #2 Lowball on one stretch where the crack was too thin/parallel for anything else. Corner can be a bit wet. 5.8?

P3: Look for a bolt at a weakness through a roof. The rock is pretty grungy here and there's a loose block that can be easily avoided. Clip the bolt and make an awkward move right. Ramble up to a bolt, gear, then chains.

P4 Option 1: 3 bolts/gear straight up. When you hit a dirty ledge, cut left a bit for 20 more feet of 5.7 slab with a bolt. Look for a rusty anchor sitting in a water runnel. This anchor would be much much nicer if it were 2 feet higher. Weird.

P4 Option 2: Cut hard left to a slab with a lone bolt. Join the above option at the dirty ledge.

P5: Kinda silly really. Walk (class 5...I guess) straight up low angle slab. Kinda tempting though as it's good rock versus the last 2 pitches.

Location Suggest change

Slab just left of Western Grebe. 

All anchors are chains and the whole route can be rapped with 1 rope. If using a 60m, use the anchors for WG instead for the last rap to terra firma.

Protection Suggest change

Micros to #2 C4. I was glad I had a #2 Loweball, but a good climber might be fine without such.


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