Better Than Bikinis
5.8- YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 14 ZA VS 4c British
Avg: 1.9 from 11 votes
|Type:||Trad, 480 ft (145 m), 5 pitches|
|FA:||Tony Calderone, John Lane 2009|
|Page Views:||1,193 total · 15/month|
|Shared By:||zoso on Nov 2, 2016|
|Admins:||Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C|
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The land on which sits Black Peeler Buttress is owned by Perpetual Storage perpetualstorage.com/index_….
Be respectful of private property.
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
A well protected Tony route? Yup. This is just left of Western Grebe and climbs for 5 pitches total.
I'd recommend pitches 1 and 2 with P2 being the $$. The others aren't as good as P3 and P4 of WG.
P1: Pad up to 2 bolts and maybe a cam until the angle eases. There's a 2 bolt anchor here for some reason (to rap with a 60m?) but it is lacking chains. Keep going until you are just below the obvious ledge and clip the chains. 5.7. This made more sense than what the topo shows imo.
P2: Best pitch by far. This is the R-facing dihedral on the same slab as WG P2. All gear; micros to #2 C4. The book shows 2 pins, I saw none. I used a #2 Lowball on one stretch where the crack was too thin/parallel for anything else. Corner can be a bit wet. 5.8?
P3: Look for a bolt at a weakness through a roof. The rock is pretty grungy here and there's a loose block that can be easily avoided. Clip the bolt and make an awkward move right. Ramble up to a bolt, gear, then chains.
P4 Option 1: 3 bolts/gear straight up. When you hit a dirty ledge, cut left a bit for 20 more feet of 5.7 slab with a bolt. Look for a rusty anchor sitting in a water runnel. This anchor would be much much nicer if it were 2 feet higher. Weird.
P4 Option 2: Cut hard left to a slab with a lone bolt. Join the above option at the dirty ledge.
P5: Kinda silly really. Walk (class 5...I guess) straight up low angle slab. Kinda tempting though as it's good rock versus the last 2 pitches.
Slab just left of Western Grebe.
All anchors are chains and the whole route can be rapped with 1 rope. If using a 60m, use the anchors for WG instead for the last rap to terra firma.