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Routes in South Face

Better Than Bikinis T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Bull Dykes and Biker Ducks S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Daffy's Shaft T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Dark of the Moon S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Duck A L'Orange T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Duck Waddle Variation T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Fool's Paradise S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Frozen Stool T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Great Grebes, Batman! T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Hornet, The A2
Pied-Billed Grebe S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Playing In The Sun T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Ruddy Duck T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Sportsman's Paradise T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Via Duck S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Walking the Duck T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Western Grebe T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Western Grebe Mantel Var. S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Why a Duck? S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: FA: Eric Eliason and Pete Gibbs 1969 FFA: Bill Robins and Peter Hunt 1985
Page Views: 607 total, 10/month
Shared By: Arie on Dec 6, 2012
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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On private land. Details
Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

Suffering from frozen stool? Perhaps cruxing on an old manky pin will solve your blockage. Frozen Stool is a fine post-graduate exam in technical(?) chimneying (or stemming) up a steep corner on the east end of the Black Arch- the line beckons while en-route to the western side of the Black Peeler. Start off the sloping ledge that forms the foundation of Black Arch. Corner jams and feet smears amid the Arch lead to a powerful move around a small roof and into the corner proper. Establish yourself in the corner, make a somewhat tricky clip of an old pin and wiggle your way upward and onward. The crack in the corner thins and the rusty pin at your feet instills little confidence. Eventually the crack 'widens' and some horizontal cracks appear, leading to fun hands and a two bolt anchor (Met rap anchors) at the end of Batwalk's first pitch. Somewhat delicate, occasionally bold climbing makes this a keeper.

Location

At the far east end of the Black Arch. I'm not sure if this should hang with the "South Face" routes or the "Peeler Face" routes. But it's there at the Black Peeler- the Black Arch is hard to miss.

Protection

Standard LCC rack with some micro nuts.

Photos

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