Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Stuart Ruckman, Libby Ellis 1989
Page Views: 5,920 total · 31/month
Shared By: Mason on Jun 5, 2003
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

259 Opinions

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This is the most difficult route on the east face of the slips (there are some .10's around the corner). Very nice midsection with nice smooth surface and a thin crack to get your fingers into. Then up to the juggy top section that feels steeper than it really is. Lots to grab up there.

Once you reach the top there is a ledge to stand on while fixing the anchors, so even if this climb comes at the end of the day (after you've done all four on this wall) you can still wear yourself out going up and not worry about being exhausted when you get there.

The guy in the pic is on Rolling The Bones, 2 climbs over.


6 quickdraws up to anchors.


This is the hardest climb on the face right of Italian Arete. Very crimpy hands. Take note of the footholds on the way up, because they are hard to see once you've climbed above. The route is much easier after the 4th bolt. I would stick clip the first bolt. Apr 16, 2004
Andrew Gram
Salt Lake City, UT
Andrew Gram   Salt Lake City, UT  
Definitely didn't think this was 8+ - it is defintely an easier lead than Thieving Magpie because of the closely spaced bolts. Good route that is in the shade very early in the morning. Jun 2, 2004
salt lake city, UT
icsteveoh   salt lake city, UT
there is a little metal tag on the belay anchors that says 5.9 on this climb... Aug 14, 2006
It is easy to hang a toprope here by first climbing Italian Arete, then traversing a few feet to lookers right on the huge ledge. Crimpy face climbing on this route, with some sequencing required to gain the best stances for clipping. A good place to learn to trust that sticky rubber! Sep 3, 2006
This is a very fun climb. Definitely use those feet and look for all the holds. I felt it was a bit hard for a 5.8, but I also felt that theiving magpie was a bit harder than a 5.7. Regardless, they are all very fun routes and an excellent place for your first lead or just chillin out on some easier stuff. May 14, 2008
Benny B  
the right bolt on the anchor is a bit of a spinner on this one Aug 6, 2011
Taylorsville, UT
DCrane   Taylorsville, UT
I would recommend something for rope protection at the top; the anchors are set up over a ledge so lots of rope drag over it Aug 24, 2011
Annie Naylor
Salt Lake City, UT
Annie Naylor   Salt Lake City, UT
I agree with the 5.8 rating. The crux for me was between bolts 3 & 4. The feet are there, you just have to find and trust them. Easy climbing after the 4th bolt. Aug 22, 2012
Evan Johnson
Salt Lake City, UT
Evan Johnson   Salt Lake City, UT
Fun climb but... I felt like it was missing 1 or 2 bolts at the top, before the ledge? Between the Arete and Magpie I didn't see any more bolts for quite a ways. I'm can't remember if I clipped the 6 bolts described here or if I missed one. The climbing was easier at the top, so maybe it's intentional, but it felt very run out. Placed a tri-cam just to be safe. Jun 14, 2014
Agreed about the missing bolt at the top, maybe just 1. I used the top bolt of Italian Arete. Jul 5, 2017