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Routes in Storm Mountain Island

Lenny's Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Amphitheater Overhang Left S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b A1
Amphitheater Overhang Right A1
Aqualung S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Big in Japan S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Bolt Route T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Captain Jack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Closing the Gap Variation T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b R
Coco Moco T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Edge of Time T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Encore T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Epic Wall T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Flake, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Generation Gap T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Goodro's Wall T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
La Creme De Shorts T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Layback Crack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Nice Little Crack T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Padded Cell S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Six Appeal S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Six Pence S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Steve The Pirate T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Storm Mountain Stupor T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Thin Slice of Time T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unknown 1 S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Unknown 2 S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unknown 3 (a.k.a Crag Turkey Escape) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Vicki and Brian Smoot
Page Views: 5,564 total, 28/month
Shared By: Eric Jacobsen on Sep 28, 2001 with updates
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

This fun sport route is just to the right of Goodro's Wall. From the Storm Mountain parking lot, cross the bridge and turn left. At the Y in the trail, branch right and then take one of the dirt paths up the slope from the first picnic table. You will need to scramble up a short 4th class gully to the belay ledge. WARNING: Be sure you can climb or lower off this gully before going up, it can get kind of sketchy coming back down. It's a bit easier if you go left.

For the climb, follow seven bolts to the anchors up the face to the right (the wall is east facing). Plenty of foot and hand holds but seems pretty challanging for 5.6. This spot queues up quickly on the weekend so get there early. Shaded most of the day.

Protection

Route consists of 7 bolts and two chains for an anchor. Anchor is placed above a small ledge. Route is approximately 80 feet from belay point to anchor. Please use your own lockers or QDs for the top anchor and rap down at the end to reduce wear on the chains. Bring a few medium to small cams to set up a belay anchor.
Seth Reelitz
Utah
  5.6
Seth Reelitz   Utah
  5.6
Marcin,
I thought the same thing, then I wondered if my old age was catching up to me ;) Aug 18, 2016
marcin ksok
Flagstaff, AZ
marcin ksok   Flagstaff, AZ
Is that a new bolt at the bottom?Don't seem to remember it being there a few years back. Sure stands out from the rest of the glue ins. Aug 18, 2016
Agree with Brian Smoot, this is one of those extremely popular moderate often repeated routes in BCC. I replaced numerous (but not all) especially the really rusted bolts back around 2012 if I recall the approx dates. The spinning anchor was the primary goal and a few glue ins were installed as well as 1/2" x 3,5" Hilti HLCs were installed. New chain / links/ rings were also replaced during this time. The removed rusted bolts on 80s era SMC hangers were 3/8" x 2 1/4" old very corroded Rawls. It remains a pretty heady lead for many 5.6/5.7 leaders. The quartzite here is very smooth. I personally enjoy this route alot. Thanks Vicki!! Jun 1, 2015
bsmoot  
dnaiscool said:

"The only purpose for this route is to get to the anchors on the top of Goodro's Wall..."

Not true, there's tons of beginners who just climb this route, then call it a day.

Update: Thanks James for the bolt replacement!

Update 6-21-17, I added the bolt at the bottom since the original first bolt is a ways up...a fall making the clip wouldn't be good. The new bolt has since been removed. Jun 1, 2015
dnaiscool  
 
The only purpose for this route is to get to the anchors on the top of Goodro's Wall...otherwise...IMO....it's a...OK, I'll be positive...Hmmm...Oh yeah: It's a good way to scare budding 5.6 leaders. May 31, 2015
Jordy Hanson  
 
Seemed a little harder than 5.6 to me. Regardless, I loved the climb. It was fun for the grade. May 11, 2013
Donovan
West Jordan, Utah
 
Donovan   West Jordan, Utah
 
I've felt the same way about this route each time I lead it. The first half of the route is so slick. I've never really looked forward to that lead (we only climb it now to TR Goodro's), but I decided last time it is one of my favorite 5.6's. Oct 11, 2010
This route made me nervous for a 5.6... Maybe because I hadn't climbed in a month or something, but the first 3 bolts got my attention for sure. Higher up it is super chill. The bolt at the bottom for the belayer made me feel way more secure for the first clips. Sep 27, 2010
Michael Buchanan  
  5.6
A really fun 5.6 slabby bolted route. Chill. Great for noobs. Apr 26, 2010
Brandon Caldwell
Salt Lake City, UT
Brandon Caldwell   Salt Lake City, UT
Good route to take the kids on. nothing too hard and you're rewarded with a good view at the end. Aug 13, 2009
Tyson Anderson
SLC, UT
Tyson Anderson   SLC, UT
Here's a story about this route. Back in 2001(?) I was belaying a friend up Goodro's wall when a couple other guys climbed up to the belay ledge to do Six Appeal. I guess one of the guys didn't know how to belay because the other guy said he was going to solo it (with a rope hanging off him) to set up a toprope so his friend could learn to climb. Just as he was stepping off the deck another guy that was waiting for us to finish Goodro's offered him a belay and he accepted. From the get-go you could tell he wasn't a person that should be soloing anything. By the time he finished the route I think he fell two or three times. I remember the guy belaying him just kind of looking back at us with a shocked look on his face.

Lesson: Don't be an overconfident reckless idiot. With that tiny, overcrowded belay ledge he was a danger to more than just himself. Jul 11, 2009
28APR09 First lead, loved the route. Sahdy and windy, but a great confidence builder. The climbing in utah in spectacular and user friendly. Reccommend it to all. Higher than I am used to, but alot more fun and satifying. May 1, 2009
Boissal
Small Lake, UT
  5.6
Boissal   Small Lake, UT
  5.6
Thin and stiff for 5.6 compared to the other ones in the area. Great route to teach beginners how to trust their feet after a few routes on Reservoir Ridge. Oct 7, 2008
those were bomber this spring. Jul 22, 2008
I remember all of them being good bolts but I will check it out. Jul 22, 2008
Brian in SLC
Sandy, Utah
Brian in SLC   Sandy, Utah
I don't think any of the bolts are 1/4". The first one is either a button head, or, a Rawl 5 piece (can't tell from my picture). At least 5/16" or 3/8". And, the route isn't that old. My bet is that they're still bomber.

Rest of the bolts look like studs?

Might not be too hard to replace the first one, though. Maybe Mike White can take a gander at it? Jul 22, 2008
Skyler Penrod
  5.6
Skyler Penrod  
  5.6
It looked to me like those bolts where old 1/4 inchers for the most part. Are they...and if so should they be replaced? I know it is only 5.6, but if a new leader fell between bolts it could generate quite the fall. Fun route though, highly recommend it. Jul 22, 2008
Adam Fisher
sandy, utah
  5.6
Adam Fisher   sandy, utah
  5.6
another great 5.6 for noobies, and new leaders Apr 25, 2007
icsteveoh
salt lake city, UT
  5.7
icsteveoh   salt lake city, UT
  5.7
If this is your first lead I'd go to six pents or whatever the one is around the corner, this one has some tricky balancing non positive sloper moves with a bit of run out that could scar a beginning leader. I'd say the bottom is a littler harder than 5.6 but? maybe I'm just not very good at slopers. Aug 13, 2006
john gilchrist
sLC, utah
  5.6
john gilchrist   sLC, utah
  5.6
Nice route to check out Goodro's from and for something to shoot for in the future. Good climb there is a little bit of a climb up but nothing to crazy. Apr 26, 2006
Lee Gitlin
  5.6
Lee Gitlin  
  5.6
It seems odd to say about a 5.6 route, but this one is hard for the grade, especially the first 3 bolts. A 5.7 rating seems inappropriate, however; the distance between bolts, and some of the cruxes lead me to suggest other 5.6's as a first lead (Italian Arete, with its more positive holds, comes to mind). Six Appeal is is a great route to practice your footwork, as you should only need hands for balance most of the way. Stay honest by avoiding the flake at left, and resist the urge to stem off Goodro's Wall. Work your feet and you should never have to make any big reaches. May 25, 2005
I would stick-clipped the second bolt. The holds (especially on the first 3 bolts) are a bit greasy for 5.6. Top half of the route is easier and juggier. Apr 9, 2004