Access Issue: Located in a National Forest Fee Area Details

Description

This wonderful quartzite crag has mostly sport routes, but also the occasional trad and mixed route. All routes are single pitch with a good mix of grades from 5.7 to 5.12, and beautiful views of the High Uintah.

Getting There

Park at the signed parking area for the trail to Ruth Lake, which is several miles past the top of Baldy Pass. Hike up the good trail to a cairned junction. Take the climber's trail left over some quartzite slabs to a short talus field. No bushwhacking is required, and the approach takes about 20 easy minutes. Good Medicine Wall is the first major wall the trail comes to.

25 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Good Medicine Area

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 154
Peace Treaty
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 204
Black Elk
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 92
Sacred Hoop
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 6
Chocolate Moose
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 125
The Legend
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 42
Wounded Knee
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 58
Moon Stone
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 13
Vision Quest
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 41
Dream Catcher
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 37
Wind Walker
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 52
Good Medicine
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 43
Ghost Dance
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Peace Treaty
 154
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Black Elk
 204
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Sacred Hoop
 92
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Chocolate Moose
 6
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
The Legend
 125
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Wounded Knee
 42
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Moon Stone
 58
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Vision Quest
 13
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Dream Catcher
 41
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Wind Walker
 37
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Good Medicine
 52
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Ghost Dance
 43
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Good Medicine Area »

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Photos

Sigh.... So the secret is out now on what I consider to be the single best climbing crag out there.

Imagine, a beautiful alpine setting, out of the heat and smog of SLC. When it's 105 in the valley, it's 75 at Ruth Lake. You will be belaying in your fleece in August here, since the crag stays in the shade.

And the routes! 24 climbs on this wall and nothing sucks. Everything is well protected with new hardware. In fact, there are at least three, 3-star routes, all of them good enough by themselves to make the trip.

You may find it a bit crowded, since the Uinta Rock guide by Smith and Tusting is available. This great guide has actual photos of all the crags -- no looking at line drawings and guessing about routes.

Aug 21, 2004
Brandon Ashby
Kamas, UT
Brandon Ashby   Kamas, UT
Ruth Lake is a very special place. I smile more climbing here than any place in Utah. It is really worth the drive for you Salt Lake kids(I live 30 minutes away so I'm spoiled). Please keep the area clean and leave your cottonwood canyon attitudes at home, just come climb hard and enjoy the tranquil space.

I was up here last weekend and want to thank the folks who we saw working hard to improve the landings and approaches in the Good Medicine area. Wish I caught your names, I want to help out the next time you are in the area for improvements. Please email me! Aug 27, 2013
Boissal .
Small Lake, UT
Boissal .   Small Lake, UT
What's a Cottonwood Canyon attitude? Aug 27, 2013
Brandon Ashby
Kamas, UT
Brandon Ashby   Kamas, UT
Too cool for school. Aug 30, 2013
zoso  
That's your answer? I'm lost. But then I'm no PhD. Aug 30, 2013
I left a la sportiva katana size 38 1/2 on July 12. If anyone see's it please give me a call. 435-659-8876
-Jesse Jul 13, 2017
mwho
SLC, UT
mwho   SLC, UT
I left a stick clip at the Good Medicine wall last week, beer and good karma for its safe return. I'm in SLC and hoping someone from nearby found it.
Cheers
Matt Jul 18, 2017
Lisa Potter
San Francisco, CA
Lisa Potter   San Francisco, CA
I left a pair of belay specs at Good Medicine wall today — If anyone finds it, I'll trade you a six pack and gratitude for its return! I'm in SLC. Please write to potter.lisa.marie@gmail.com. Thank you! Jun 16, 2018