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Routes in Good Medicine Area

Adore T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Bear Dance, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Black Elk S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Chocolate Moose T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dream Catcher S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Fire Water S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Forgotten Warrior S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Ghost Dance S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Good Medicine S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
I Am Haunted S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Indian Summer S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Legend, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Medicine Man S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Moon Stone S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Peace Treaty S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ruthie Boulder V? ?
Sacred Hoop S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Spirit Guide S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sun Dog S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tomahawk in the Back S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tribal Warfare S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Vision Quest S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
White Man's Burden T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Wind Walker S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Wounded Knee S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Access Issue: Located in a National Forest Fee Area Details

Description

This wonderful quartzite crag has mostly sport routes, but also the occasional trad and mixed route. All routes are single pitch with a good mix of grades from 5.7 to 5.12, and beautiful views of the High Uintah.

Getting There

Park at the signed parking area for the trail to Ruth Lake, which is several miles past the top of Baldy Pass. Hike up the good trail to a cairned junction. Take the climber's trail left over some quartzite slabs to a short talus field. No bushwhacking is required, and the approach takes about 20 easy minutes. Good Medicine Wall is the first major wall the trail comes to.

25 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Good Medicine Area

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 140
Peace Treaty
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 182
Black Elk
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 73
Sacred Hoop
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 7
Chocolate Moose
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 109
The Legend
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 37
Wounded Knee
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 42
Moon Stone
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 10
Vision Quest
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 35
Dream Catcher
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 32
Wind Walker
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 40
Good Medicine
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 38
Ghost Dance
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Peace Treaty
 140
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Black Elk
 182
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Sacred Hoop
 73
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Chocolate Moose
 7
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
The Legend
 109
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Wounded Knee
 37
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Moon Stone
 42
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Vision Quest
 10
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Dream Catcher
 35
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Wind Walker
 32
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Good Medicine
 40
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Ghost Dance
 38
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Good Medicine Area »

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Photos

Sigh.... So the secret is out now on what I consider to be the single best climbing crag out there.

Imagine, a beautiful alpine setting, out of the heat and smog of SLC. When it's 105 in the valley, it's 75 at Ruth Lake. You will be belaying in your fleece in August here, since the crag stays in the shade.

And the routes! 24 climbs on this wall and nothing sucks. Everything is well protected with new hardware. In fact, there are at least three, 3-star routes, all of them good enough by themselves to make the trip.

You may find it a bit crowded, since the Uinta Rock guide by Smith and Tusting is available. This great guide has actual photos of all the crags -- no looking at line drawings and guessing about routes.

Aug 21, 2004
Brandon Ashby
Kamas, UT
Brandon Ashby   Kamas, UT
Ruth Lake is a very special place. I smile more climbing here than any place in Utah. It is really worth the drive for you Salt Lake kids(I live 30 minutes away so I'm spoiled). Please keep the area clean and leave your cottonwood canyon attitudes at home, just come climb hard and enjoy the tranquil space.

I was up here last weekend and want to thank the folks who we saw working hard to improve the landings and approaches in the Good Medicine area. Wish I caught your names, I want to help out the next time you are in the area for improvements. Please email me! Aug 27, 2013
Boissal
Small Lake, UT
Boissal   Small Lake, UT
What's a Cottonwood Canyon attitude? Aug 27, 2013
Brandon Ashby
Kamas, UT
Brandon Ashby   Kamas, UT
Too cool for school. Aug 30, 2013
zoso  
That's your answer? I'm lost. But then I'm no PhD. Aug 30, 2013
I left a la sportiva katana size 38 1/2 on July 12. If anyone see's it please give me a call. 435-659-8876
-Jesse Jul 13, 2017
mwho
SLC, UT
mwho   SLC, UT
I left a stick clip at the Good Medicine wall last week, beer and good karma for its safe return. I'm in SLC and hoping someone from nearby found it.
Cheers
Matt Jul 18, 2017

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