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Ted Lanzano > Comments
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Jan 12, 2019
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Nice work on the route, Josh. I think our friend Sven from Bergen made the flash of Rainbow Wall. See his…
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Aug 6, 2015
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Does anyone know the name of the boulder problem in this photo? Seemed about V5/6. There is also a cool li…
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Jun 13, 2015
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This is a fantastic route, and thanks to Chandler for putting up another great line on Overhang Rock. It ta…
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Dec 16, 2013
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The original ascents did not use the rest that you mentioned. From the mail slot below the crux, we went up…
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Nov 2, 2013
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Does anyone know the name and grade of the high boulder problem above the pullout road in the Hoodoos? I t…
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Oct 28, 2013
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My brother Stan and I did this problem in the summer of 2001, and we called it Interference because of the…
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Oct 8, 2013
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I also thought upper half of Burning Down the Haus was stout. For a somewhat easier variation, climb the b…
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Aug 20, 2013
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I hope the bolts the stay. I thought Archangel was a fantastic pitch with the bolts. I think it would be a…
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Jun 3, 2013
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Thanks, Ben and Chandler, for a great addition to Overhang Rock and Flatirons climbing. Super fun route.…
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Mar 29, 2012
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I'm looking for a partner to climb on Desdichado. If you're interested, send me an email at tlanzano@gmail.…
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Sep 26, 2011
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This is a fun rock climb, but there is a lot of loose rock at the ledge between the second and third bolts.…
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Jul 10, 2011
Southeast Utah
> San Juan County
> Indian Creek
> Blue Grama Cliff
> Unnamed 9+ (aka Mexic… (5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a)
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That looks like a very crowded rock climb. Can't you people take turns?!
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May 22, 2011
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All of the routes on Overhang Rocks west face have been upgraded with half-inch, stainless steel hardware,…
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Oct 12, 2009
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Yesterday we replaced all the bolts and achors with stainless-steel, half-inch bolts and hangers. This is…
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Aug 13, 2009
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The big rest is called the Bath Tub.
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Oct 27, 2008
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The left heel hook was too sketchy for me, so I just released the knee bar and repositioned my right foot i…
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Aug 12, 2008
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Brink, I think this is the first time I've heard you say a Bo-can route is harder than the grade given... A…
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Jul 6, 2008
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For the V5 beta, you can actually do the entire problem with both feet hooked on edge. To do this fine met…
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Jun 23, 2008
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Thanks, Matt and Paul, and props to you guys for your efforts. It was great updating these routes with you…
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May 16, 2008
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Thought I'd let you know that I broke a hold just right of the 4th bolt of this climb. Now the top crux is…
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Apr 20, 2008
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The old ring bolts and anchors have been replaced with half inch, stainless bolts. Still need to patch and…
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Dec 3, 2007
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Peter, I think we used different sequences on this. From the LH crimp in the pod (at the end of the rail s…
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May 10, 2007
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Agreed, this route is totally classic. The rock is super solid, it doesn't get much traffic, delicate moves…
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Feb 25, 2006
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First Overhang is still a great problem even though some of the good holds have broken. I love the tenuous…
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Oct 29, 2005
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After the west-side traverse, continue around the corner (tricky) and top out on the north-east side (liste…
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Dec 13, 2004
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I am curious if anyone has beta for the fifth clip, which is the clip right above the roof and at the end o…
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Nov 1, 2004
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Cool, thanks. Ted
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Nov 1, 2004
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Does anyone know where the start is for Reverse Undercling Traverse? Thanks.
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Sep 23, 2004
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Another way to use the pocket that Michael refers to (on the lower left side of the Red Wall) is via the R…
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Sep 3, 2004
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I think the grade on this Eldo classic is solid 13b. Besides being a damn hard route to begin with, some h…
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Jul 24, 2004
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After doing the route earlier this winter, I felt it was around 12b. Maybe the bouldery and short nature of…
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Mar 15, 2004
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A great climb, but this route does not have its own anchors. You can use the Web's anchors, but this involv…
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Dec 27, 2003
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I'm curious if the broken hold has made this climb far harder than its original 5.13c rating. It would be…
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Oct 1, 2003
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There is a good spot after the 4th clip for a red Alien, which makes is it a little less runout. Definitel…
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Aug 14, 2003
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My friend's car got borken into at the Blob Rock parking spot a few weeks ago. I would recommend parking…
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Aug 14, 2003
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I ran into an employee from the Department of Transportation who told me he was going to cut the rope trave…
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