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Routes in Nip and Tuck

Antagonism S,TR 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
ArĂȘte S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bock! T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Boiling Point T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Caddis/Argus S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a V10 7C+
Capital Punishment C2
Constrictor T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dan-D-Line T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Ebb Tide TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Finger Crack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gyro Captain S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Hare Balls T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Heart Throb TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hypotenuse T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Left-angling Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lethal Dose T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Mr. Spiffy S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Mr. Stiffy S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Night Train TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Old Dihedral T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Spread Eages Dhare T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Surprising Slab TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown A S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown B S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unnamed (submitted as Doc's Route) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport, 30 ft
FA: Will Gadd & Mark Rolofson
Page Views: 1,543 total, 9/month
Shared By: Ted Lanzano on Jan 17, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

Begin on a slopey mantle on the right side of the overhanging wall (same as for Mr. Spiffy). Then, traverse up and left a make several bouldery moves to the jug on the left side of the wall. Clip, make a tough move to get over the lip and then you're home free (home free if the top out is dry - a friend slipped on a snow patch close to the anchors and took a good fall). The original rating I saw for this route was 5.12 c/d, but I don't think its harder than 5.12b. To me it felt easier than Power Bulge, Quick Draws, and other Colorado 12cs. In any case, open for discussion.For harder variations, do the direct start to Gyro Captain (hard - called Rob's Direct Start, I think) or Mr. Spiffy (13a), which goes one bolt further to a challenging top out (see route description on this site). Although not entirely necessary, it was helpful to have a stick clip for the first bolt.

Protection

Four quickdraws, plus two for the anchors

Photos

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Ken Cangi
Eldorado Springs, CO
Ken Cangi   Eldorado Springs, CO
12b. Aug 3, 2005
ac
  5.12b
ac  
  5.12b
12b. Jul 24, 2004
Ted Lanzano
Boulder, CO
 
Ted Lanzano   Boulder, CO
 
After doing the route earlier this winter, I felt it was around 12b. Maybe the bouldery and short nature of the climb just fit my style, not sure. In any case,it's a great line and worth climbing, especially if you dont like to hike, or have a lot of time. Jul 24, 2004
Just want clarify I am Nick Spoog and this is not Senor Samet (say Senor Samet with a French accent like the French castle guard in Monty Python's Holy Grail - it's kinda fun). Anyway, I've digressed.......oh yeah, I also wanna make it clear that Spoogie-mon made no quality or ratings comment concerning this climb. I've never even seen it.

P.S. - drum circle Friday night at theWasteland.... all are welcome. Jul 22, 2004
I agree Bob. I am surprised that Ted calls this 12b. How hard do people feel the 13c a bit to the left is (I forget its name)?

bobl Jul 21, 2004
Seems to Spoog that it's hard to compare grades from one climbing area with grades of another climbing area. How about we compare the grade for a climb in one are to other climbs in the same area. (i.e., compare Gyro Captian to other climbs in Boulder Canyon). The result of within-climbing area grade comparison will of course be that some areas will have a reputation as soft and others as sandbagged, but hopefully there will be consistentcy within the climbing area (in this case Boulder Canyon).

(I'm on a bit of a crusade regarding my above comment and am hoping to persuade many to this way of thinking)..... what do you think? Jul 21, 2004