Type: Sport, 30 ft (9 m) Fixed Hardware (1)
FA: Will Gadd & Mark Rolofson
Page Views: 3,012 total · 12/month
Shared By: Ted Lanzano on Jan 17, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route

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Description Suggest change

Begin on a slopey mantle on the right side of the overhanging wall (same as for Mr. Spiffy). Then, traverse up and left a make several bouldery moves to the jug on the left side of the wall. Clip, make a tough move to get over the lip and then you're home free (home free if the top out is dry - a friend slipped on a snow patch close to the anchors and took a good fall). The original rating I saw for this route was 5.12 c/d, but I don't think its harder than 5.12b. To me it felt easier than Power Bulge, Quick Draws, and other Colorado 12cs. In any case, open for discussion.For harder variations, do the direct start to Gyro Captain (hard - called Rob's Direct Start, I think) or Mr. Spiffy (13a), which goes one bolt further to a challenging top out (see route description on this site). Although not entirely necessary, it was helpful to have a stick clip for the first bolt.

Protection Suggest change

Four quickdraws, plus two for the anchors


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