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Routes in Nip and Tuck

Antagonism S,TR 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
ArĂȘte S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bock! T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Boiling Point T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Caddis/Argus S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a V10 7C+
Capital Punishment C2
Constrictor T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dan-D-Line T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Ebb Tide TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Finger Crack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gyro Captain S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Hare Balls T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Heart Throb TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hypotenuse T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Left-angling Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lethal Dose T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Mr. Spiffy S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Mr. Stiffy S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Night Train TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Old Dihedral T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Spread Eages Dhare T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Surprising Slab TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown A S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown B S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unnamed (submitted as Doc's Route) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport, TR, 50 ft
FA: Marc Hart, Tim Hudgel, Bob D'Antonio, 1986.
Page Views: 3,392 total, 16/month
Shared By: Michael Komarnitsky on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


44 Opinions

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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

Follow the bolts up the face of the slab midway between Nip and Tuck. Start with the obvious layback, move up to the crimp, and continue. The horizontal slashes around the second bolt are interesting.

Protection

4 bolts to a 2 chain anchor.

Photos

Ken Cangi
Eldorado Springs, CO
  5.12a/b
Ken Cangi   Eldorado Springs, CO
  5.12a/b
11a to a tricky boulder problem. Oct 23, 2013
Cam Sheldon
Lone Pine, CA
 
Cam Sheldon   Lone Pine, CA
 
My buddy pulled me up this one on TR. I am not strong enough to lead it, but I could tell the thumb catch was essential. That crux is insane. Jul 20, 2013
climberboy228 Romano  
  5.12a/b
My first 12a/b redpoint! This climb is super cool but also really hard. I am 6'0" tall with zero ape-index; people with much shorter bodies/reaches would have to do the crux differently...here's my beta: once completing the tricky mantle you find yourself standing on the ledge with a big, left hand sidepull. From the ledge, I can barely reach the totally horrible, right hand slimper...smear the left foot and bump the left hand to the unique sidepull...but make sure you use the thumb catch, so it's more like a pinch...then comes the hard part...the left foot smear made me fall repeatedly, so instead I basically do a pullup off the slimper and pinch combo to the high right foot...which is also terrible...then get the left foot over the roof and make a desperate right hand bump to the sharp flake-like hold...find a better right foot and then go to a series of good hands to the anchors...totally awesome! Sep 18, 2011
My new project. Too bad I can't close to pull the crux. Maybe this fall. May 12, 2011
A friend and I went to climb here one evening, sans guidebook. We started on this one, thought it looked good...and it was, save the ankle breaker brick below the slick crux!
Careful. Jun 2, 2010
Evan S
Erie, CO
Evan S   Erie, CO
Most of the route is 11- or a, then getting up to the roof turns to harder 11, then over the roof turns to 12. If you can't crimp on quarter pad two finger holds, you're not gonna mantle, I didn't. Oct 18, 2009
Tried this one on top rope. At the bottom you're like wow I'm climbing a 12, then reality sets in at the roof and its welcome to I-still-suck-ville. May 30, 2009
Richard Lee
Superior, CO
Richard Lee   Superior, CO
I could not stick the "paste high and reach" beta at the crux, but here is an alternative sequence that worked for me. I did a left heel-hook/smear on the side of the wall under the roof, reached up/fell into the left hand pinch-thing, and then reached out to the not-so-good right hand. With the left heel in place, my body was less extended so I could work my feet over the lip. Fun moves. Jul 2, 2008
Jay Samuelson
Denver CO
  5.12a/b
Jay Samuelson   Denver CO
  5.12a/b
Fun route. The lower horizontal crimps seemed rather polished, but the ledges are so long you can find your own sweet spot to go off of. This felt really hard the first time I went up, took awhile to figure out a sequence through the roof Jun 13, 2008
Kevin Neilson
Boulder
Kevin Neilson   Boulder
This one is superhard. I ended up going right to the finger crack and then lowering and doing the crux on TR. I do have some beta. Fortunately, I can reach up to the crappy right crimper and then bump my left hand to the sidepull before the right smears off. It's hard to see from below, but there is a hole by the sidepull that you can put your left thumb in. This is key: now you can squeeze with the left hand which is significantly better than using the sidepull alone. Then, I get the left foot on lame almost-vertical edge under the roof and get the right foot up on an infitesimal nubbin. Then the left foot goes up to a smear over the roof. I have to use the left knee for balance just to get the left foot there. Now, you have two crappy feet, a crappy right hand, and a just somewhat-poor squeeze with the left hand. Now, go for the top of the ear (not big) with the right, get the right foot up to a small ledge below the bolt, and you are done. Aug 27, 2006
William McGehee
Choctaw, OK
 
William McGehee   Choctaw, OK
 
So this is what a 5.12 feels like, huh??? Ouch. I like the above comment of paste your feet high... There really isn't a defined feature upon which one must place such a paste.

Shameless Beta. Beware!!! Left foot goes on the tiny vertical crimp (you can see it plainly from the roof-rest pedestal), then get your lieback on, reach for the crappy positive crimp, then smear the right foot wherever you can. Power up to the small "ear-looking" feature with your hands (I had to be a little dynamic with this) and put your right foot on a thank-God tiny but long-ish ledge that is colored with lichen. I didn't really use the sidepull much to get over the roof. I just used it for stability AFTER getting over.

Do what you will. I don't think I'll ever be leading trad .12s if this is par for the course. Freakin' hard. Props to those who can OS this crap... (Up to the crux IS REALLY fun though)~Wm Nov 8, 2004
Heh...I remember trying to haul my ass up this climb several years ago...fun stuff but never could do it. I think with enough weight on the rope from my belayer I finally got over the crux. I loved the lower face though...tiny crimps! Jul 26, 2004
So ok, "paste your feet high" where? I could reach the sidepull crimp (up and left of the last bolt) with my left, and something not-so-great with my right, but I was so extended, on marginal feet, that I couldn't haul up. now, it was a hot day and stuff, and I suck and all, but I couldn't even figure out a plausible sequence. Jul 26, 2004
Tony, I've read other comments of yours that state you have pretty long arms. While I found similar to you that this climb was more or less impossible to me, it was actually because no matter how hard I tried I just couldn't reach the crimp beyond the roof. I climb all of the route alright until the roof, where I past my feet as Kristo said and reach hard, falling short by almost a foot. I don't know if you had the same difficulties as me, given your long arms, but I, too, think this climb has to be extremely relative in grade unlike many others. Oct 23, 2003
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
Like warm apple pie? Jun 30, 2003
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.12
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.12
OK, I'll stick my thumb in this pie...I couldn't even DOG the sequence of this one on TR. I tried 1/2 dozen times and just couldn't do it. Seeing as how in the same month I onsighted other 12s, I guess that made me think it was hard. One climb I had a much easier climb on was one that other's are saying the reverse of. I guess it depends on what you are good at. For me, this was terribly hard (read: impossible for ME). Jun 30, 2003
jonah  
C'mon, man. It's not THAT bad. I climbed it the same day as you (with all the fog, etc.?). It was hard to stick on the upper crimp and the feet because of the low friction. Big deal. Jun 30, 2003
I must have climbed this route on a different day that all of you guys, because I thought that this route was THE most glossed over route in the country. I had to chalk up 30 times on the lower part and the crux was not doable........it was not doable. I could not smear. I was extremely disappointed in this route. 5.13a on glossy days. Jun 27, 2003
Jeremy Monahan
Fort Fun, CO
Jeremy Monahan   Fort Fun, CO
Definitely a good route. Some holds look chipped, might be me though. The roof is the best part. Altogether, a kickass climb. May 20, 2002
Jeff Lockyer
Canmore, AB
Jeff Lockyer   Canmore, AB
This is a great route. The crux is very well defined and you know to save the juice for this part. It is indeed height dependant, as some people may be able to reach and pull down on the upper crimp a lot easier, but there is always the tricky feet. Just paste them high and pull down as suggested. Sep 25, 2001
It's 12a if you're tall, just paste your feet high and reach! Sep 6, 2001
Agreed...very tricky feet...the crimpy stuff looks good, and it is easy to forget your feet. a hard on-sight. Jan 1, 2001
The bottom of the route has a maximum of about 10d/11a but the crux is pulling over the little roof at the last bolt. Tricky footwork and crimpy holds. Jan 1, 2001