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Routes in Nip and Tuck

Antagonism S,TR 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
ArĂȘte S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bock! T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Boiling Point T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Caddis/Argus S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a V10 7C+
Capital Punishment C2
Constrictor T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dan-D-Line T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Ebb Tide TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Finger Crack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gyro Captain S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Hare Balls T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Heart Throb TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hypotenuse T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Left-angling Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lethal Dose T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Mr. Spiffy S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Mr. Stiffy S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Night Train TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Old Dihedral T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Spread Eages Dhare T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Surprising Slab TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown A S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown B S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unnamed (submitted as Doc's Route) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, TR
FA: unknown
Page Views: 7,435 total, 36/month
Shared By: Michael Komarnitsky on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

This is a short climb, about 25 feet up. The crack starts more wide open with options for laybacks if you are feeling creative. It revolves from the right to left with a one or two degree slant. The crack has yet to be worn out, so all finger jams are pretty solid - a good one for those who may not be that comfortable in cracks.

Note: there is one loose rock up there, but it does not come out.

Protection

Standard rack, with emphasis on mid-sized stoppers. There are two bolts with hangers at the top for an easy TR or anchor. Do an easy walkoff.
Mike Kubes
Duluth MN
Mike Kubes   Duluth MN
Fun lead on some small-ish gear. There is a old cam lodged way back in the crack. Spent some time trying to fish it out but no luck. Aug 10, 2016
Greg Barnes
  5.10b
Greg Barnes  
  5.10b
After the easy start, the first couple moves - cranking on finger locks with basically nothing for feet - is solid 5.10 (at Yosemite, the Needles, Joshua Tree, etc). Just because it's short doesn't mean people should sandbag. After those first couple cranks, it eases off to 5.9. Oct 26, 2015
Zachary McGee
  5.9+
Zachary McGee  
  5.9+
Getting really greasy. Jul 23, 2015
Andrew Locke
Louisville, CO
  5.9
Andrew Locke   Louisville, CO
  5.9
This route is a lot of fun, but I agree that it would be a bit hairy for a more beginner leader. It's pretty much dead vertical, and not all the stances are that great to place gear. That said, the gear is bomber, and the moves are a lot of fun. Definitely not harder than 5.9, but it's not an easy 9. Apr 22, 2015
Eliot Augusto
Boulder, CO
 
Eliot Augusto   Boulder, CO
 
Great crack. Super painful on the muscles for the new crack climber, I was screaming like the pros to get my arms to work. The feet are much better than they look. Apr 7, 2014
Bill Olszewski
Colorado Springs, CO
 
Bill Olszewski   Colorado Springs, CO
 
Awesome finger crack! Best 5.9 I've done in a long time. Two-hang on lead; flash on TR. A couple gear placements are real strenuous. Feb 13, 2013
JitsClimber
Broomfield,Co
 
JitsClimber   Broomfield,Co
 
Grease is getting worse. Watch your hand jams carefully. Climbed it this weekend again, and it's worse than the first time I climbed it. Lots of chalk making it super slick too. Still a fun climb though. Jul 5, 2011
Evan S
Erie, CO
Evan S   Erie, CO
Greasy, but fun. I have a half broken ankle, and found plenty of horizontal ledges to stand on, part crack, part face climb. Oct 18, 2009
B-rad  
This crack made for a nice first clean aid climb. Solid gear and short enough to complete with a standard free-climbing rack. C1 perhaps? I have no idea. Oct 5, 2008
claytown
Boulder, CO
 
claytown   Boulder, CO
 
This route is really short, but it is a good quality crack. Easy access makes this a good easy trad route. If this crack were in the middle of a multipitch climb, it would be a classic pitch. Sep 23, 2007
This is a great climb for the moderate or advanced trad climber. I would not recommend that it be climbed by novice trad climbers as there are not very many good spots to rest or put pro in. A great climb on TR for the moderately skilled crack climber. A little greasy on hot days. I also found some blood on a small ledge. Overall an excellent climb sans the grease, blood, or typical weekend crowds. Jul 2, 2005
Matt Chan
Boulder
  5.9
Matt Chan   Boulder
  5.9
"A lot of fun. Fairly sustained. Great intro to crack climbing. "

Finger crack that is.

There are maybe 2 hands on this route. I used one #1 Camalot, but everything else was in the .5" to .75" range. Felt like I was climbing at Table Mtn... greasy and short (fun nonetheless). Apr 5, 2005
William McGehee
Choctaw, OK
William McGehee   Choctaw, OK
The rock all around is plenty solid. No worries on getting anyone hurt. If anyone rescues a blue Smiley's #7 nut from the crack about 2/3 the way up, I'd REALLY appreciate it back. A nut tool + rock hammer may be required as my buddy didn't really know how to clean it and made the situation a lot worse... Also, if someone has a LOT of free time on their hands, please help me scrub that crack with a bouldering brush. It needs the abrasion. Thanks. Sep 23, 2003
Bryan Gartland
Helena, MT
Bryan Gartland   Helena, MT
Has anyone else noticed the suspect nature of the rock that the right (east) top anchor is drilled into? It may be ok, but the rock around the bolt sounds a little hollow when pounded on with your hand. Jun 3, 2003
A lot of fun. Fairly sustained. Great intro to crack climbing. Apr 21, 2003
Cool climb! Bring your chalkbag... I climbed it after it was toproped by everyone in a large party. Very greasy (monkey traverse). Sep 3, 2002
John Jennings
Boulder, CO
John Jennings   Boulder, CO
Fantastic route! Bomber gear and interesting moves throughout most of the climb. I placed a few mid-sized stoppers and found a great spot for a Green Alien about 3/4 of the way up. Jul 20, 2002
Casey Bernal
Arvada, CO
Casey Bernal   Arvada, CO
There are currently two bolts at the top of the crack making an easy setup for top rope. -casey bernal Dec 4, 2001