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Routes in Nip and Tuck

Antagonism S,TR 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
ArĂȘte S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bock! T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Boiling Point T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Caddis/Argus S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a V10 7C+
Capital Punishment C2
Constrictor T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dan-D-Line T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Ebb Tide TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Finger Crack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gyro Captain S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Hare Balls T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Heart Throb TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hypotenuse T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Left-angling Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lethal Dose T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Mr. Spiffy S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Mr. Stiffy S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Night Train TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Old Dihedral T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Spread Eages Dhare T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Surprising Slab TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown A S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown B S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unnamed (submitted as Doc's Route) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, TR
FA: Kurt Gray and Dan Hare, 1980
Page Views: 4,091 total, 20/month
Shared By: Greg Robertson on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

Start climbing to the right of where the rope falls. Follow up to a ledge that has some grass growing in the upper part of it. Then follow the rope up to the bolts. There are no real surprises on this route, it is just solid and consistent.

Protection

Set of chains at the top. It is very quick and easy set up.

Eds. It has been done as a trad lead.

Photos

Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.7
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.7
The book... well, let's talk about that book.
It is not accurate.
The route is commonly led. It is also a popular toprope. Sep 24, 2017
Justin Brunson
Broomfield CO
 
Justin Brunson   Broomfield CO
 
Tony, I wouldn't suggest such sacrilege [especially in a town that owns so many pitchforks], but my book lists it only as a toprope route, while its neighbor to the left is listed as 5.8R trad. Thanks for clarifying. Apr 12, 2015
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.7
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.7
To the above I answer:
Absolutely there is a reason.
Because it has been lead on trad alone for decades.
One does not just go adding bolts to climbs that have been done trad. Apr 12, 2015
Justin Brunson
Broomfield CO
 
Justin Brunson   Broomfield CO
 
Fun route! Any reason why it hasn't been equipped as a sport or mixed lead? Apr 11, 2015
Chris Zeller
Boulder, CO
 
Chris Zeller   Boulder, CO
 
An excellent beginner toprope. Chains at the top and easy walk up provides an excellent beginner outdoor climbing gym. Try lots of variations till your heart's content.

It doesn't make sense to use this as a trad lead. If you want to do trad, try the obvious, dihedral crack to the left. It eats gear and is a perfect intro to trad. Jun 9, 2010
A very easy and simple toprope. It could be done on trad with very severe run outs, but there is a a lack of any bottleneck placements. For all of those who seek the more natural approach to the top, do not bring rigid-stemmed cams.... Jul 2, 2005