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Routes in Nip and Tuck

Antagonism S,TR 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
ArĂȘte S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bock! T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Boiling Point T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Caddis/Argus S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a V10 7C+
Capital Punishment C2
Constrictor T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dan-D-Line T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Ebb Tide TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Finger Crack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gyro Captain S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Hare Balls T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Heart Throb TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hypotenuse T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Left-angling Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lethal Dose T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Mr. Spiffy S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Mr. Stiffy S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Night Train TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Old Dihedral T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Spread Eages Dhare T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Surprising Slab TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown A S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown B S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unnamed (submitted as Doc's Route) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: unknown to me
Page Views: 708 total, 5/month
Shared By: Tony B on May 18, 2005
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

This is a decent route, but is still pretty dirty and has some loose rock, perhaps owing to it's lack of popularity, which could perhaps be due to the name? This is the next climb right of Heart Throb. It is plainly visible in the attached photo, rising up and right to the edge of the picture. It starts in a steep crack and shallow corner, climbing up a few reachy moves (#1 crux, 10a) then reaching a large left facing corner to a stepped overhang and roof- which is surpassed with nice stemming (#2 crux, 10a). Height may have an effect on the perceived grade, with long legs or flexibility being beneficial for both cruxes. Once above the overhang, continue up and right through a crack and flake system to a large ledge (8+, S-), then up over then next wall (moderate climbing) to top out. Watch the rope topping out so as not to knock rocks down. Belay on this large ledge of of excellent stoppers or tricams in a solid crack up and left. The name implied to me that I was probably getting on something nastily protected, but that turned out NOT to be the case. There were some runouts on the line due to choosing not to place gear behind some questionable flakes, but all of the hard climbing felt reasonably protected and safe. Just mind not to drop anything onto your belayer if you are a heavy climber and given to breaking holds.

Protection

A standard rack with plenty of slings. I placed some nuts, some cams, and some tricams.

Photos

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