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Routes in Nip and Tuck

Antagonism S,TR 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
ArĂȘte S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bock! T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Boiling Point T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Caddis/Argus S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a V10 7C+
Capital Punishment C2
Constrictor T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dan-D-Line T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Ebb Tide TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Finger Crack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gyro Captain S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Hare Balls T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Heart Throb TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hypotenuse T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Left-angling Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lethal Dose T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Mr. Spiffy S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Mr. Stiffy S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Night Train TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Old Dihedral T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Spread Eages Dhare T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Surprising Slab TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown A S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown B S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unnamed (submitted as Doc's Route) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, TR, 60 ft
FA: Chris Taylor & Charly Oliver, 1980
Page Views: 3,848 total, 30/month
Shared By: Rob Kepley on May 5, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

Begin at a west-facing slab just right of Surprising Slab. Climb up low-angled rock with good edges for feet to a break in the roof above.

Continue through the roof using a good jug for your right hand, then slightly left and finally right to the chain anchors.

Location

This is about 10.5 miles up canyon on the right side of road. It requires about a 1 minute approach. You can easily scramble up to the top using the steep gully between Nip and Tuck to set up a TR.

Protection

Not much...this route would be a serious lead for the 5.6 climber. Better just to TR it.

Photos

Found a short strap with a snap-buckle at the bottom of this route. Doubt anyone would take the trouble to get it back, but if it's yours and you want it, message me to claim. Aug 12, 2011
Julius Beres
Boulder, CO
  5.6 R
Julius Beres   Boulder, CO
  5.6 R
Instead of going to the break in the roof, pull the roof. There is a good undercling and then good holds over the top... adds some fun to an easy line (pulling the roof directly is probably still only 5.7). Jun 29, 2008
kevinnlong
Boulder, CO
  5.6 PG13
kevinnlong   Boulder, CO
  5.6 PG13
The more difficult section of the climb, the roof and above, has reasonable pro opportunities. Study the route from the bottom and plan accordingly. While perhaps not a good beginner 5.6 trad lead, I rather liked the "tricky" pro-placing scenario. For that reason, the climb is a good mental test at the grade. Jun 13, 2008