Type: Trad, TR, 60 ft
FA: Chris Taylor & Charly Oliver, 1980
Page Views: 4,145 total · 29/month
Shared By: Rob Kepley on May 5, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


54 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details

Description

Begin at a west-facing slab just right of Surprising Slab. Climb up low-angled rock with good edges for feet to a break in the roof above.

Continue through the roof using a good jug for your right hand, then slightly left and finally right to the chain anchors.

Location

This is about 10.5 miles up canyon on the right side of road. It requires about a 1 minute approach. You can easily scramble up to the top using the steep gully between Nip and Tuck to set up a TR.

Protection

Not much...this route would be a serious lead for the 5.6 climber. Better just to TR it.

Photos

kevinnlong
Boulder, CO
  5.6 PG13
kevinnlong   Boulder, CO
  5.6 PG13
The more difficult section of the climb, the roof and above, has reasonable pro opportunities. Study the route from the bottom and plan accordingly. While perhaps not a good beginner 5.6 trad lead, I rather liked the "tricky" pro-placing scenario. For that reason, the climb is a good mental test at the grade. Jun 13, 2008
Julius Beres
Boulder, CO
  5.6 R
Julius Beres   Boulder, CO
  5.6 R
Instead of going to the break in the roof, pull the roof. There is a good undercling and then good holds over the top... adds some fun to an easy line (pulling the roof directly is probably still only 5.7). Jun 29, 2008
Found a short strap with a snap-buckle at the bottom of this route. Doubt anyone would take the trouble to get it back, but if it's yours and you want it, message me to claim. Aug 12, 2011