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Routes in Nip and Tuck

Antagonism S,TR 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
ArĂȘte S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bock! T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Boiling Point T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Caddis/Argus S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a V10 7C+
Capital Punishment C2
Constrictor T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dan-D-Line T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Ebb Tide TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Finger Crack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gyro Captain S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Hare Balls T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Heart Throb TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hypotenuse T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Left-angling Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lethal Dose T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Mr. Spiffy S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Mr. Stiffy S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Night Train TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Old Dihedral T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Spread Eages Dhare T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Surprising Slab TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown A S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown B S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unnamed (submitted as Doc's Route) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, TR
FA: Scott Woodruff, Solo, 1979.
Page Views: 1,562 total, 8/month
Shared By: Michael Komarnitsky on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

Same start as Hypotenuse, but where that climb goes left to the huge corner, this goes up and right, up the scary-looking "Constriction".

Start left of a large, clean, left-facing dihedral. The dihedral curves into an overhang, and at its center is a clean, small crack running the length of it. Move up an easy face, then a steep bulge with great, solid hand holds to crank off of. A huge hold at the top of the bulge signifies the end of the crux, move up and slightly left to finish.

Protection

Long slings for TR, standard rack for trad.

Photos

Daniel Joder
Boulder, CO
Daniel Joder   Boulder, CO
TR'ed it today. It has some interesting moves on it then a grunt-and-hump-the-flake kind o' thing to finish off the crux (at least for me). Watch out for the bat shit. A bit short but maybe worth doing once. There are bolts above this you can scramble to in order to set up the TR. We put one long cordelette with a master point on the bolts and then used another full cordelette (two, actually, for redundancy) in a long loop to extend the anchor point just beyond a sort of finger thingie. Worked well. Sep 10, 2017