Type: Aid
FA: Deavers and Valdez, 1986
Page Views: 364 total · 2/month
Shared By: Andrew Klein on Dec 31, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details

Description

A short practice aid climb just to the right of Gyro Captain. Take the overhanging diagonal crack up and right. Can be done all clean on excellent gear, however, the awkwardness might warrant the C2 rating. The first piece is the hardest to place.

Protection

Small Aliens, TCUs.

Photos

- No Photos -
Freed by Caldwell in 1997; now called Mr. Stiffie, 13d. Feb 9, 2005
So, is it Mr. Stiffie, by T. Caldwell, .13d, via the direct start (aka Rob's direct start)? The new BoCan guide has the low left Mr. Stiffie at 14a, with the direct start. What is the line!? Jun 2, 2010
Peter Beal
Boulder Colorado
Peter Beal   Boulder Colorado
The theory is that a broken hold has upped the grade for Mr Stiffie to 14a from 13d. There is no new line, just an altered route. BTW Mr Stiffie should be its own route as it uses the arete more than the crack as it heads right along the upper section. Jun 3, 2010