Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Nip and Tuck

Antagonism S,TR 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
ArĂȘte S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bock! T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Boiling Point T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Caddis/Argus S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a V10 7C+
Capital Punishment C2
Constrictor T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dan-D-Line T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Ebb Tide TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Finger Crack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gyro Captain S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Hare Balls T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Heart Throb TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hypotenuse T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Left-angling Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lethal Dose T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Mr. Spiffy S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Mr. Stiffy S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Night Train TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Old Dihedral T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Spread Eages Dhare T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Surprising Slab TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown A S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown B S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unnamed (submitted as Doc's Route) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: George Bracksieck and Beverly Bien, 1994?
Page Views: 3,281 total, 16/month
Shared By: PATRICK THOMPSON on Jul 9, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


73 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Seasonal Closure Details

Description

This is a good beginner route.

Protection

This was put up ground up.

Eds. It was retrobolted, probably unknowingly. The last two bolts are too close. You need small wires and #0 TCU for start, then clip 4 or 5 bolts to top anchors. The route starts 10 feet left of Sunset Arete.
Greg Barnes  
 
The pro before the first bolt is unlikely to hold due to rock quality. As is, it's just dumb, it either should have a bolt at the start, or just remove them all and return it to the original state.... Oct 26, 2015
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
 
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
 
George, did you and Beverly name it? Jul 8, 2015
In 1994, I led Beverly Bien up this route. There were no bolts. Jul 8, 2015
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.7+
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.7+
Lots of scrambling in between 2 sections that make that up. While not a total bomb, there are reasons why people bolted a lot around there but not this one.
I more or less lead/bouldered/soloed everything around there in 2001 and never thought it was worthy of mention or attention. This line does protect on a few small cams low down prior to bolt #1. Here is the question - isn't that about all the protection you need? If you can do that, the rest is a cake walk. Jun 10, 2015
Sean Brady
Boulder, Colorado
 
Sean Brady   Boulder, Colorado
 
A beginner will have trouble finding the protection placements below the first bolt. Apr 14, 2013
Jay Eggleston
Denver
 
Jay Eggleston   Denver
 
I placed two small cams near the bottom, and it seemed perfectly safe to me. Apr 4, 2013
There are a bunch of large loose rocks near the ledge around 4/5ths of the way up. I removed a few of the melon-size rocks that were ready to knock out a belayer, but there are still some sketchy pieces up there. Be careful and you'll be fine.

Note: Most of this route can be toproped by walking out onto the ledge referenced above. Anchor yourself to the easily accessible bolt for safety, and use the large boulder in combination with the bolt to build your toprope anchor. Aug 12, 2011
Sarah Meiser
Boulder, Colorado
 
Sarah Meiser   Boulder, Colorado
 
As a fledgling 7 trad and 8 sport leader, I got freaked below the 1st bolt. The #7 stopper placement looked a bit iffy. Backed off and spotted a nice little crack from the ground. Double zero C3 saved the day, I hung on that puppy to test it... beautiful! Absolute comfort cruise from there. May 26, 2011
Chris Zeller
Boulder, CO
 
Chris Zeller   Boulder, CO
 
Not the greatest route. The start is the best part of the route and the pro is reasonable if you are confortable with trad climbing. I put in a small cam in a horizontal crack low down and the nut in the undercling. Both were good placements. So, as a 5.7 trad route, it's fine but unsustained.

As a sport climb, this sucks. Once you get to the first bolt, you walk past three more to the ledge. Then there is one way too low and two above where the climbing gets fun again. So, basically there are three reasonable bolts on the thing. Would it have killed them to put one bolt down low? I guess I understand not putting bolts next to gear placements, but I think it's lousy how many grid bolted climbs have a highball boulder start, as if it's some kind of ego thing. This is clearly a beginner climb, so trade one of the plentiful bolts on the 5.0 ramp for one down low and you have a safe, beginner route. Jun 9, 2010
Baumer
Boulder, CO
  5.7
Baumer   Boulder, CO
  5.7
If you have some bouldering experience, it's an easy enough lead to do with no pro to the first bolt. May 21, 2010
I think this is a good beginner lead, depending upon what you lead. If one is just breaking into 5.7, probably not! The first bolt is high up, I did the aforementioned small cam in the undercling, I felt it was solid and did not worry going for the bolt. You gotta admit, it is 5.7, no harder. The second crux is not thin really, just have to spend a minute figuring it out. I think it's great to have a quick warmup climb before hitting other stuff on the crag! Oct 22, 2003
William McGehee
Choctaw, OK
William McGehee   Choctaw, OK
Only a good beginner lead if the first bolt is clipped as Tonya mentioned. This was my girlfriend's first lead (sport or trad), and she's been on Supercrack Buttress with me in IC. She follows 10a trad and didn't feel comfortable clipping the first bolt. Be advised.~Wm Sep 23, 2003
Tonya Clement
Boulder, CO
Tonya Clement   Boulder, CO
We climbed this route yesterday...after trudging through four feet of snow to get to the base. Gosh, do I sound like my grandpa telling stories of walking to school in the old days?

Here is my two cents on this one....my hubby is a "beginner leader"....this was his second lead and he cruised it...now he is 6' tall and has been climbing for three years. After he led it, he pulled the rope, and it fell leaving the first bolt clipped so I could lead with little/no risk of hitting the ground should I fall off doing the initial crux move. This is my second year of leading, and I am 5'2". I was thrilled to have the rope running through the first bolt given the ground rush potential. I agree....there was protection had I chosen to place a piece before the bolt. I actually found this section to be easy (of course - I had no risk)....it was the upper crux where the two bolts are close that I found to be the hardest moves...it is protected but a fall before the second bolt would result in hitting the ledge...it is a couple of dicey moves and very thin.

Beginner route....the verdict is still out....I vote "no." Mar 31, 2003
I applaud the 'ground-up' style (very reasonable on this terrain) and can easily understand the qualms about this being a 'beginner route'; however, the use of clean protection at the bottom shouldn't preclude 5.7 leaders from trying this. There are two placements possible to protect the initial section, and while neither is ideal, it should be quite easy to climb back to the ground to test them if you are having any doubts about pulling past them. This is a good habit to adopt - beginner or not. (I led it w/o clipping the bolts, since the first couple also offer nut placements and the climbing is about 5.2 anyway....the last 2 bolts seem warranted though.) Sep 11, 2002
The crux 5.7 protects with a single #7 stopper at about eye level. Clip a single biner to this, and then clip the bolt once you're through. If that nut pulls out later, who cares? The other partially cruxy section is after the ledge, but the bolts here protect you real well. Maybe not such a great beginner route, since the start can be freaky.

I saw two guys trying this route in hiking boots and a 2-foot runner on that #7 stopper. You can imagine how far they got. Plus, that nut placement got stuck, and they walked around to rappel down to get it. Ha! Don't do this. You really have to rappel this route from top. Otherwise, you're in for some vertical bushwaking w/no belay. If you really wan't to, you can set up a belay/rap at the ledge with a bolt and a #2 Camalot, or something weird like that. Sep 11, 2002
This is described as located left of "Sunset Arete"... is this the same as "Arete", which is left of the classic finger crack?

I saw some bolts here - the first one is high, and the route continues up low angle rock and a sort of a headwall. In semi-darkness it looked dicy to get to the first bolt. Sep 5, 2002
Michael Walker
Loveland, CO
Michael Walker   Loveland, CO
Good beginner route? Ha! The start is the best part, but the tiny cam stuck in the undercling (I eshewed the RPs in the cracks to that point) at the 5.7 crux is a couple feet below you, and I wouldn't want to fall on it. It was actually kind-of fun, but we were kidding each other that we were in England, on Gritstone, climbing at the crux above marginal gear. Not a really good beginner route. Jul 18, 2002