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Routes in Nip and Tuck

Antagonism S,TR 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Arête S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bock! T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Boiling Point T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Caddis/Argus S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a V10 7C+
Capital Punishment C2
Constrictor T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dan-D-Line T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Ebb Tide TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Finger Crack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gyro Captain S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Hare Balls T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Heart Throb TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hypotenuse T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Left-angling Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lethal Dose T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Mr. Spiffy S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Mr. Stiffy S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Night Train TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Old Dihedral T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Spread Eages Dhare T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Surprising Slab TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown A S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown B S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unnamed (submitted as Doc's Route) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport, TR, 50 ft
FA: retrobolted, Clay Wadman and Mark Gay?
Page Views: 3,155 total, 15/month
Shared By: Michael Komarnitsky on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


111 Opinions

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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

This is a beautiful arete running along the west side of the slab. The crux moves are over the roof and getting over the bulge onto the arete about halfway up. It is well worth it.

Protection

5 bolts to 2 rap rings at the top.
Bill Olszewski
Colorado Springs, CO
 
Bill Olszewski   Colorado Springs, CO
 
Great route. Not .10b if you stay on the arete left side, probably .9+/.10a. Feb 13, 2013
Evan S
Erie, CO
Evan S   Erie, CO
You all have sandbags in your pants. The route's a soft 10a, but still 10a up to the 2nd to last bolt, then moving over the roof, yes even with the holds on the arete, is 10b/c. Suckers. Just stay right of the arete, or you're on a different climb. Oct 18, 2009
ac
  5.10a
ac  
  5.10a
The FA of this was done by Clay Wadman and Mark Gay and they rated it 10- and placed only two or three bolts. Mark Rolofson decided it needed more. Jul 21, 2004
What is the bolted route just around and to the left of the Arete. It looks like 5.8 with some easy runouts?? New route with nice anchor up high. May 13, 2004
Try doing this route WITHOUT using arete holds on the left, and you might agree with the 10d rating. If one chickens out to the left (especially at the roof) it is 9+ in my book. Great climb! Oct 22, 2003
William McGehee
Choctaw, OK
William McGehee   Choctaw, OK
Last lead in the dark yesterday. This is by far my favorite .10 in the canyon. Climb it fast and dynamically for some serious fun. I use two slots to the west of the arete, but think that this could be why some think the climb is easier than a 5.10... If you lead 5.9 sport, this climb is a perfect project. If you lead 5.11b, don't use ANYTHING on the left side of the arete and you'll have a challenge, especially at the roof. Rebuttals??? Sep 23, 2003
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10a
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10a
A lot of people on this site, self included also 'upgrade' climbs. I think the tendency over time is to downgrade certain types of climbes from the FA's rating, as easier sequences are discovered. Others will be upgraded, as holds break off. It's just the nature of things. Apr 15, 2003
Yeah, you're right. After rereading my comment, I realized I sounded like a dick. I just think it's weird that people are trying to downplay others' accomplishments at every level on this website by downgrading everything. Apr 14, 2003
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10a
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10a
Beta is beta.. is the purpose of the site. There is a big difference between 5.9 and 5.10d when someone who only red points 5.9 is looking for a safe project to work on. They'd probably forgo the 5.10d. Apr 14, 2003
Are you people seriously debating the ratings of this climb? Is there actually a difference between a closely bolted 5.10 and a closely bolted 5.9? Give it a rest.... Apr 13, 2003
Michael Walker
Loveland, CO
Michael Walker   Loveland, CO
5.9 if you've got the crag to yourself, 5.10d (and very run out, senorita) if there are any girls around. Jul 18, 2002
Jeremy Monahan
Fort Fun, CO
Jeremy Monahan   Fort Fun, CO
Is this honestly a 10d? The roof is maybe 10a or b. Very cool climb. May 20, 2002
This route, I believe is at least a 10b maybe c if you continue up, staying a bit to the right just beneath the last bolt instead of moving left around the arete then going up and finally coming back around to the right to clip the last bolt. I have seen many people do this including myself. When it is done this way it is definately put at 5.9. If you go straight up an undercling is needed to make a good reach to clip that last bolt. Dec 21, 2001
Jeff Lockyer
Canmore, AB
Jeff Lockyer   Canmore, AB
A good route, did it awhile back. I can't justify the 10d rating but would give it 10b/c, if you are using the holds all over the left face perhaps the route is 10a, but being an arete and doing the route keeping this in mind I think the rating stands. The proper name of the route, just for bookkeeping sakes is "Sunshine Arete". Sep 25, 2001
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10a
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10a
...besides the route is only 9+/10a anyway.

Seriously, can ANYONE justify the 10d rating? A pal of mine who leads mostly 5.9s found it to be easy, too. Aug 10, 2001
Yes I will comment! This is a fun route! do not bother top-roping, all of the bolts are within reach of good stances and the crux moves are a hoot! Jan 1, 2001