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Routes in Nip and Tuck

Antagonism S,TR 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
ArĂȘte S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bock! T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Boiling Point T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Caddis/Argus S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a V10 7C+
Capital Punishment C2
Constrictor T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dan-D-Line T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Ebb Tide TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Finger Crack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gyro Captain S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Hare Balls T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Heart Throb TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hypotenuse T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Left-angling Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lethal Dose T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Mr. Spiffy S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Mr. Stiffy S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Night Train TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Old Dihedral T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Spread Eages Dhare T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Surprising Slab TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown A S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown B S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unnamed (submitted as Doc's Route) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport, 30 ft
FA: Pat Adams
Page Views: 3,175 total · 18/month
Shared By: jonah on Apr 12, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

Mr. Spiffy is on the overhung wall next to the parking area for Nip & Tuck. The regular start begins with an awkward mantle. The moves go left from here, through some big but hard to use sidepulls, then to a jug on the arete (which is surprisingly hard to clip from). A couple thrutchy moves and you're at the crux, which involves pretty tough body position on slopey crimps and gastons pulling over the lip. Look for a key right foot under the lip to get your hips up, and it's all over.

I may be a puss, or maybe I was doing the moves wrong, but this thing feels really hard. I heard someone bouldered it out and called it an 8. Yikes.

Protection

3-4 bolts, chains at the top.

Photos

jason seaver
Estes Park, CO
jason seaver   Estes Park, CO
Um. Really?! May 10, 2016
Someone stole my quickdraws from this route couple of days ago.... I saw a group of people climbing there recently, and draws were hanging, so next time I see them I will ask to give it back. This is sad that this kind of things happens in climbing community.... May 10, 2016
Thanks, Peter..

BTW all, this is a photo by Andy Mann!! May 28, 2008
Peter Beal
Boulder Colorado
Peter Beal   Boulder Colorado
Chris,
That is amazing even with mondo pads. Way to go! BTW the mantel on Mr Spiffy is just past the last pad in the photo so you're looking at a 30' drop onto jagged rocks on a 13a crux. The start is definitely harder than V8. That's probably the most significant highball/solo in the Front Range in quite a while. I can't believe it wasn't reported!

bouldercanyonbouldering.blo… May 27, 2008
Hi there..
To clarify, both myself and Seth Allred bouldered out this route a while back. I've also heard that Dave Graham bouldered it out a few years ago. Maybe V8 from the direct. Yep, a pretty scary mantle but not unreasonable with 3 mondo pads.... ;) Buttermilk-like.... May 27, 2008
Attn. Peter Beal, I am wondering why is Mr. Stiffy not in the guide? This route is a "classic" short, hard, contrived, very painful, also would like to note there is no " HIKING" for my little legs! Thanks so very much for listing! May 22, 2004
Peter Beal
Boulder Colorado
Peter Beal   Boulder Colorado
If anyone bouldered this out ground-up, everyone would hear about it. A dicey balancy crux at 20+ feet with a deadly landing. 13X for sure Apr 14, 2003
Pat Adams did the first ascent of this route. Apr 14, 2003