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Mr. Spiffy

5.13a, Sport, 30 ft (9 m),  Avg: 2.5 from 6 votes
FA: Pat Adams
Colorado > Boulder > Boulder Canyon > Nip & Tuck
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Description

Mr. Spiffy is on the overhung wall next to the parking area for Nip & Tuck. The regular start begins with an awkward mantle. The moves go left from here, through some big but hard to use sidepulls, then to a jug on the arete (which is surprisingly hard to clip from). A couple thrutchy moves and you're at the crux, which involves pretty tough body position on slopey crimps and gastons pulling over the lip. Look for a key right foot under the lip to get your hips up, and it's all over.

I may be a puss, or maybe I was doing the moves wrong, but this thing feels really hard. I heard someone bouldered it out and called it an 8. Yikes.

Protection

3-4 bolts, chains at the top.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Chris Schulte bouldering out the direct start to Gyro Captain/Spiffy whatever..
[Hide Photo] Chris Schulte bouldering out the direct start to Gyro Captain/Spiffy whatever..

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Jimmie Redo
Boulder, Co
[Hide Comment] Pat Adams did the first ascent of this route. Apr 14, 2003
Peter Beal
Boulder Colorado
[Hide Comment] If anyone bouldered this out ground-up, everyone would hear about it. A dicey balancy crux at 20+ feet with a deadly landing. 13X for sure Apr 14, 2003
[Hide Comment] Attn. Peter Beal, I am wondering why is Mr. Stiffy not in the guide? This route is a "classic" short, hard, contrived, very painful, also would like to note there is no " HIKING" for my little legs! Thanks so very much for listing! May 22, 2004
[Hide Comment] Hi there..
To clarify, both myself and Seth Allred bouldered out this route a while back. I've also heard that Dave Graham bouldered it out a few years ago. Maybe V8 from the direct. Yep, a pretty scary mantle but not unreasonable with 3 mondo pads.... ;) Buttermilk-like.... May 27, 2008
Peter Beal
Boulder Colorado
[Hide Comment] Chris,
That is amazing even with mondo pads. Way to go! BTW the mantel on Mr Spiffy is just past the last pad in the photo so you're looking at a 30' drop onto jagged rocks on a 13a crux. The start is definitely harder than V8. That's probably the most significant highball/solo in the Front Range in quite a while. I can't believe it wasn't reported!

bouldercanyonbouldering.blo… May 27, 2008
[Hide Comment] Thanks, Peter..

BTW all, this is a photo by Andy Mann!! May 28, 2008
Jacek Giecold
Nederland
[Hide Comment] Someone stole my quickdraws from this route couple of days ago.... I saw a group of people climbing there recently, and draws were hanging, so next time I see them I will ask to give it back. This is sad that this kind of things happens in climbing community.... May 10, 2016
jason seaver
Estes Park, CO
[Hide Comment] Um. Really?! May 10, 2016