Elevation: 7,650 ft
GPS: 39.987, -105.437 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 63,204 total · 263/month
Shared By: Michael Komarnitsky on Dec 31, 2000 with 5 Suggestions
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC
Access Issue: Seasonal Closure / 2020 Update Details

Description

This is a good rock with variety. It has cracks, to aretes, to sheer faces. On a corner it is sheltered from the winds and car noise is at a minimum. The base is very belayer-friendly - the warm sun basks the base in sun for a long time, and there is a soft clearing around. It appears, though, that this rock does not see as much traffic as some of the rocks closer to Boulder - lichen abounds on the rock. TR: The first three routes on Nip can be toproped via a scramble to the W. side of the rock and a hairy traverse out onto a ledge. Ebb Tide is best setup right above the climb in a wide crack. The Night Train is most directly setup out on the ledge using a short vertical crack and a horizontal crack at head level for gear placement. For Heart Throb, you can use the same anchor as Night Train, but use a bolt above the roof as a directional. Bring some long slings also (about 10-15 feet). Between Nip and Tuck is a gully with access to the left and right.

L->R these appear to be:

A. Ebb Tide, 10, 1p, gear.
B1. Night Train, 9+, 1p, gear or TR.
B2. Heart Throb, 10, 1p, bolt & gear.
C1. Lethal Dose, 10, 1p, 100', gear.
C2. Small Dose, 12- R, 1p, 100', bolts & gear.
D. Beguiled?, 10, 1p, gear.
E. Borrowed Time?, 10, 1p, gear.
F1. Left-Angling Crack, 9-, 1p, gear.
F2. Doc's Route, 7, 1p, 80', gear & bolts.
I. Bock!, 5.7 PG-13, 50', gear.
J. Arete, 10+, 1p, 50', bolts.
K Antagonism, 12-, 1p, 50', bolts & gear.
L. Finger Crack, 9-, 1p, 50', gear.
M. Surprising Slab, 8, 1p, gear.
N. Hare Balls, 7, 1p, gear.
O. Old Dihedral, 5, 1p, 65', gear.
P. Dan-D-Line, 6, 1p, gear.
Q. Spread Eagles Dhare, 9, 1p, gear or TR.
R. Constrictor, 9, 1p, gear or TR.
S. Unknown A, 1p, 45', bolts & gear.
T. Unknown B, 1p, 45', bolts.
U. Hypotenuse, 9, 1p, gear or TR.
V. Boiling Point, 9, 1p, gear or TR.
W. Argus, 13, 1p, 40', bolts.
X. Mr. Stiffy, 14-, 1p, 40', bolts.
Y. Gyro Captain, 12, 1p, bolts.
Z. Rob's Start Direct?, 13+, 1p, bolts.
AA. Mr. Spiffy, 13-, 1p, bolts.
BB. Capital Punishment, A2 or C2, 1p, gear.

Getting There

It's 10.5 miles from the start of the canyon, on the right side in the middle of a turn to the right. Parking is limited directly underneath, but there is parking further along.

Per Nathan Kofahl: the GPS coordinates of the parking area are:

39°59'18.4"N (39.988614) / 105°26'08.9"W (-105.4273684)

and

here is a street view where a car is parked near the crag.

26 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Nip and Tuck

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 201
Finger Crack
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 51
Hypotenuse
Trad, TR
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 136
Arête
Sport, TR
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
 6
Lethal Dose
Trad
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 54
Antagonism
Sport, TR
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 9
Gyro Captain
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 5
Mr. Spiffy
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Finger Crack
 201
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR
Hypotenuse
 51
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR
Arête
 136
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport, TR
Lethal Dose
 6
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R Trad
Antagonism
 54
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport, TR
Gyro Captain
 9
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Mr. Spiffy
 5
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
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