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Routes in Nip and Tuck

Antagonism S,TR 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Arête S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bock! T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Boiling Point T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Caddis/Argus S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a V10 7C+
Capital Punishment C2
Constrictor T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dan-D-Line T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Ebb Tide TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Finger Crack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gyro Captain S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Hare Balls T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Heart Throb TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hypotenuse T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Left-angling Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lethal Dose T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Mr. Spiffy S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Mr. Stiffy S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Night Train TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Old Dihedral T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Spread Eages Dhare T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Surprising Slab TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown A S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown B S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unnamed (submitted as Doc's Route) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Elevation: 7,650 ft
GPS: 39.987, -105.437 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 38,594 total, 187/month
Shared By: Michael Komarnitsky on Dec 31, 2000 with updates
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

Description

This is a good rock with variety. It has cracks, to aretes, to sheer faces. On a corner it is sheltered from the winds and car noise is at a minimum. The base is very belayer-friendly - the warm sun basks the base in sun for a long time, and there is a soft clearing around. It appears, though, that this rock does not see as much traffic as some of the rocks closer to Boulder - lichen abounds on the rock. TR: The first three routes on Nip can be toproped via a scramble to the W. side of the rock and a hairy traverse out onto a ledge. Ebb Tide is best setup right above the climb in a wide crack. The Night Train is most directly setup out on the ledge using a short vertical crack and a horizontal crack at head level for gear placement. For Heart Throb, you can use the same anchor as Night Train, but use a bolt above the roof as a directional. Bring some long slings also (about 10-15 feet). Between Nip and Tuck is a gully with access to the left and right.

L->R these appear to be:

A. Ebb Tide, 10, 1p, gear.
B1. Night Train, 9+, 1p, gear or TR.
B2. Heart Throb, 10, 1p, bolt & gear.
C. Lethal Dose, 10, 1p, 100', gear.
D. Small Dose?, 12-, 1p, gear.
E. Beguiled?, 10, 1p, gear.
F. Borrowed Time?, 10, 1p, gear.
G1. Left-Angling Crack, 9-, 1p, gear.
G2. Doc's Route, 7, 1p, 80', gear & bolts.
H. Bock!, 5.7 PG-13, 50', gear.
I. Arete, 10+, 1p, 50', bolts.
J Antagonism, 12-, 1p, 50', bolts & gear.
K. Finger Crack, 9-, 1p, 50', gear.
L. Surprising Slab, 8, 1p, gear.
M. Old Dihedral, 5, 1p, 65', gear.
N. Hare Balls, 7, 1p, gear.
O. Dan-D-Line, 6, 1p, gear.
P. Spread Eagles Dhare, 9, 1p, gear or TR.
Q. Constrictor, 9, 1p, gear or TR.
R. Unknown A, 1p, 45', bolts & gear.
S. Unknown B, 1p, 45', bolts.
T. Hypotenuse, 9, 1p, gear or TR.
U. Boiling Point, 9, 1p, gear or TR.
V. Argus, 13, 1p, 40', bolts.
W. Mr. Stiffy, 14-, 1p, 40', bolts.
X. Gyro Captain, 12, 1p, bolts.
Z. Rob's Start Direct?, 13+, 1p, bolts.
AA. Mr. Spiffy, 13-, 1p, bolts.
BB. Capital Punishment, A2 or C2, 1p, gear.
Seasonal Closure Details

Getting There

It's 10.5 miles from the start of the canyon, on the right side in the middle of a turn to the right. Parking is limited directly underneath, but there is parking further along.

Per Nathan Kofahl: the GPS coordinates of the parking area are:

39°59'18.4"N (39.988614) / 105°26'08.9"W (-105.4273684)

and

here is a street view where a car is parked near the crag.

25 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Nip and Tuck

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Finger Crack
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Boiling Point
Trad, TR
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Arête
Sport, TR
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Antagonism
Sport, TR
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Gyro Captain
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Mr. Spiffy
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Finger Crack 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR
Boiling Point 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR
Arête 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport, TR
Antagonism 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a Sport, TR
Gyro Captain 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Mr. Spiffy 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Nip and Tuck »

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Photos

I've climbed here a bunch when time is short or teaching others, but I've never paid close attention to the routes. Today, it occurs to me, there are three rather distinct lines on the left of Tuck. In my estimation, Surprising Slab is a fun little climb, and there is a perfectly good seam directly below the anchors, and another acceptable route to the right (before the dihedral), one of those latter being Hare Balls. Also, around the corner, past the new sport routes, there are three pretty distinct lines on that face. Hypotenuse is a fun puzzle, Spread Eagles is a crappy arete, and there is a great crack right down the middle, and for that matter, there are two totally different paths up Dan-D-Line.
As one of the most popular places to climb in the Canyon, I'm confused why no one has added these other 'routes'? Even if they are squeezed, you can do them with almost no redundancy of holds. Oct 21, 2016
Someone left some size 43 climbing shoes there. They are hanging in a tree near the base. Aug 10, 2016
David Reuille
Denver, CO
David Reuille   Denver, CO
Anyone know what the dihedral left of Dan-D-Lion is? I would guess 5.4-5.5 trad. May 12, 2013
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
I don't understand why? Anything can be TR'd, but this is a trad lead. May 4, 2011
Matt Novinger
Erie, CO
Matt Novinger   Erie, CO
Admins: Hypotenuse should be listed as a TR as well as trad in the L to R listing above. May 3, 2011
Beware of climbing here.

My vehicle was broken into (within 15 minutes of parking it) and everything was stolen - radio, wallet and wedding band.

My recommendation is to park where you can see your vehicle even though it's tough to get back onto the road.

This just happened on Thursday 6/24/04.

If you passed on this date around 5:45 and saw someone walking up the road with a stick in his hand, or a blue station wagon, please let me know. You can email me at cory_jakobsen@hotmail.com. Thanks. Jun 28, 2004
Tuck's large dihedral (with topropes on either side, just to the east of Nip)...I cannot remember the name of those. The top anchors consist of two bolts with a chain connecting them. Not sure why the anchors were done this way. Use caution and clip both bolts or at least two separate links of the chain...just for the sake of redundancy. Anyone with a bolt cutter could easily improve these anchors by separating the chains and eliminating the ability for someone to throw a rope over the chain. I don't think "rope over chain" is a generally accepted top anchor and it creates single point of failure. Mar 31, 2003
The fact that this route is so popular with guides and groups almost caused disaster this weekend. Hiding from some much needed rain inside our car, my partner and I watched as a whole family was almost hit trying to cross the road. These routes are located at a bend in the canyon, so when crossing there is not much visibility. Please, walk the 100 feet so that you are on one side of the bend or the other and can see at least one direction. Or better yet, park at one of the eight or so spaces on the same side of the road as the crag. If those are all filled, chances are that it is too crowded to be much fun anyways. Aug 4, 2002
I do agree this is a pretty good area for small group climbing. However, please be thoughtful of those around you. A group of four probably doesn't need to set up four ropes on the same rock. Jul 17, 2002
This is one of the best areas for top roping with groups, plenty of routes, plentiful anchors, easy approach, and plenty of parking. This is also a great spot to get students comfortable with rappelling, as the start is straight forward. PLEASE try to keep noise, trash and visibility in control, as this area has had access issues a few years ago, and I believe it is actually private property. Jul 25, 2001

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