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Routes in Nip and Tuck

Antagonism S,TR 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
ArĂȘte S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bock! T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Boiling Point T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Caddis/Argus S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a V10 7C+
Capital Punishment C2
Constrictor T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dan-D-Line T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Ebb Tide TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Finger Crack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gyro Captain S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Hare Balls T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Heart Throb TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hypotenuse T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Left-angling Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lethal Dose T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Mr. Spiffy S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Mr. Stiffy S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Night Train TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Old Dihedral T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Spread Eages Dhare T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Surprising Slab TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown A S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown B S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unnamed (submitted as Doc's Route) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Type: Trad, 45 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 361 total · 3/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Oct 11, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details

Description

This is a bitty route snuck in between Doc's Route and Arete that adds another low-end moderate for those inclined. Climb the line of big holds (PG-13) left of the retrobolted Arete start aiming for the wide crack above. Use the cracks on the left for protection. Near the top, there is an okay green Alien placement. Finish by pulling up over the arete to the right.

Note, if this line has another name, we can change the name.

Per Greg Barnes and Matt Shaffer, there are some very loose blocks up near the top. Beware!

Location

Between Doc's Route and Arete, start on the south face and going around to the west.

Protection

#3, #2, #1 Camalots, a green Alien. Longs slings for the tree above, or more conveniently, you can use the bolts above Arete with a 24" sling + 8" QD and a 48" sling + 8" QD to reduce wear on your rope.

Photos

Greg Barnes  
 
There are a lot of loose blocks at the top, but there's a detached block on the right wall - a logical foothold if trying to move around right to the anchor for the arete - which is ready to go and extremely dangerous for anyone on the ground. I'd recommend heading straight up and belaying from the tree.

This would be OK if the bushy start and rubble-filled finish were cleaned, but it's hard to recommend it as is. Oct 26, 2015
I second Greg's comment. Just did this route last night and almost pulled off 2 huge blocks! Luckily the stance at that point is good, and I didn't pull with all my weight. I considered just pulling these 2 blocks off to clean up the route a bit, but the road is relatively close, so I was afraid of debris hitting a passing car. Be careful at the top of this route! Those 2 blocks are ready to go if you pull on them...they're completely separated from the wall and just sitting there. Otherwise a fun, little route! Jun 27, 2018

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