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Routes in Nip and Tuck
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Antagonism S,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Arête S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Beguiled T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Bock! T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Boiling Point T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Borrowed Time T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Caddis/Argus S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a V10 7C+ |
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Capital Punishment C2 |
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Constrictor T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Dan-D-Line T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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Ebb Tide TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Finger Crack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Gimps S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Gyro Captain S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Hare Balls T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Heart Throb TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Hypotenuse T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Left-angling Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Lethal Dose T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Mr. Spiffy S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Mr. Stiffy S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Night Train TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Old Dihedral T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Plastic Fantastic (submitted as Small Dose) T,TR 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Spread Eages Dhare T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Surprising Slab TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Unnamed (submitted as Doc's Route) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Wimps S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Trad, 45 ft (14 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,457 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Leo Paik on Oct 11, 2008 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures 2025 - Bitty Buttress, Blob, &, Security Risk reopened. Eagle Rock remains closed.
Details
On 3/14/25: Bitty Buttress, Blob, & SR reopened. Eagle Rock is closed.
2/3/25. Bitty Buttress, Blob, Eagle Rock &, Security Risk closed for raptor nesting.
FS (3/27/24): Eagle Rock & Security Risk are now open!
2/1/24: W. McCurry: USFS annual area closures in Boulder Canyon beginning 2/1/24 - Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, Eagle Rock, Security Risk.
From W. McCurry: 2/10/23 Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk opened. Eagle Rock is closed - info: fs.usda.gov/detail/arp/news….
W. McCurry, NFS, Arap./Roo. NF: USFS began annual area closures in BC 2/1/23. The closures were Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Through 7/31/23, the closures protect golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera will remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District with BCC monitors nesting progress & informs climbers about giving eagles space to raise young.
Fed. & state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting closures. Signs are posted at key access pts into the closed areas. Closure info: fs.usda.gov/goto/arp/eagles.
K. Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Nat'l Forest Service: as of 6/8/21: BC areas reopen after unsuccessful nesting.
K. Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20:
Following a 5 mo. closure to protect nesting eagles, the Roosevelt NF has reopened Eagle Rock.
“The BC eagles successfully raised 1 strong & healthy eaglet this year,” wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha, USDA FS. “2 chicks hatched initially, only 1 survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the 2nd chick, but climber cooperation with closures are crucial to the eagles.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nest. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, nest sites stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made, unused areas opened in Apr.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Effective through 7/31/20, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
It is against federal & state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, & wildlife professionals under an agreement with the FS enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest & the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, & the public. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting all closures & leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office @ 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
As of 4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock stays closed until 7/31/2020 confirmed with Matt Henry, Rec Prog Mgr, FS.
From K. Armstrong, FS Pub Aff, katherine.armstrong@usda.gov, 970-222-7607: 3/20/19, Blob, East Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security are open. Eagle stays closed to climbing & other activities through 7/31/19.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress & to inform climbers.
See - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security will close 2/1 - 7/31 for nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened/lengthened.
Each year, BC raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting 2/1 through 7/31 at Eagle, Security, Blob, & Bitty Buttress. The area is monitored & closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the FS Boulder Ranger District, BCC, & Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
2/3/25. Bitty Buttress, Blob, Eagle Rock &, Security Risk closed for raptor nesting.
FS (3/27/24): Eagle Rock & Security Risk are now open!
2/1/24: W. McCurry: USFS annual area closures in Boulder Canyon beginning 2/1/24 - Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, Eagle Rock, Security Risk.
From W. McCurry: 2/10/23 Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk opened. Eagle Rock is closed - info: fs.usda.gov/detail/arp/news….
W. McCurry, NFS, Arap./Roo. NF: USFS began annual area closures in BC 2/1/23. The closures were Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Through 7/31/23, the closures protect golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera will remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District with BCC monitors nesting progress & informs climbers about giving eagles space to raise young.
Fed. & state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting closures. Signs are posted at key access pts into the closed areas. Closure info: fs.usda.gov/goto/arp/eagles.
K. Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Nat'l Forest Service: as of 6/8/21: BC areas reopen after unsuccessful nesting.
K. Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20:
Following a 5 mo. closure to protect nesting eagles, the Roosevelt NF has reopened Eagle Rock.
“The BC eagles successfully raised 1 strong & healthy eaglet this year,” wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha, USDA FS. “2 chicks hatched initially, only 1 survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the 2nd chick, but climber cooperation with closures are crucial to the eagles.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nest. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, nest sites stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made, unused areas opened in Apr.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Effective through 7/31/20, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
It is against federal & state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, & wildlife professionals under an agreement with the FS enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest & the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, & the public. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting all closures & leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office @ 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
As of 4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock stays closed until 7/31/2020 confirmed with Matt Henry, Rec Prog Mgr, FS.
From K. Armstrong, FS Pub Aff, katherine.armstrong@usda.gov, 970-222-7607: 3/20/19, Blob, East Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security are open. Eagle stays closed to climbing & other activities through 7/31/19.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress & to inform climbers.
See - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security will close 2/1 - 7/31 for nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened/lengthened.
Each year, BC raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting 2/1 through 7/31 at Eagle, Security, Blob, & Bitty Buttress. The area is monitored & closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the FS Boulder Ranger District, BCC, & Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
Description
This is a bitty route snuck in between Doc's Route and Arete that adds another low-end moderate for those inclined. Climb the line of big holds (PG-13) left of the retrobolted Arete start aiming for the wide crack above. Use the cracks on the left for protection. Near the top, there is an okay green Alien placement. Finish by pulling up over the arete to the right.
Note, if this line has another name, we can change the name.
Per Greg Barnes and Matt Shaffer, there are some very loose blocks up near the top. Beware!
Note, if this line has another name, we can change the name.
Per Greg Barnes and Matt Shaffer, there are some very loose blocks up near the top. Beware!
Protection
#3, #2, #1 Camalots, a green Alien. Longs slings for the tree above, or more conveniently, you can use the bolts above Arete with a 24" sling + 8" QD and a 48" sling + 8" QD to reduce wear on your rope.
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