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Routes in Der Zerkle

Absolution (submitted as Hot if You're Not aka The Brown Eye Wall) S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
April Fools S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bar None S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Der Fuhrer TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
East Face Left Side T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
East Face Right/Der Zerkle T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Feeling Lucky S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Final Solution T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Happy Ending T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Hot if You're Not aka The Brown Eye Wall (submitted as Absolution) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Knot Carrot S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
New Beginnings T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a R
Ribspuren T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Southeast Arete T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Sunny Side One T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Sunny Side Two T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
Touch Monkey S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Two Clucks From Saigon T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
West Face [Der Zerkle] T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
What If You're Not? T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Wing Ding S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Will Niccolls, Ike Nicoll, April 1, 1989.
Page Views: 4,019 total, 26/month
Shared By: Una Bonger on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Routes on Der Zerkle are closed from 1 April to 1 September Details
Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

This sport climb is in the complex Dinosaur Mountain area. Find the Court area on Der Zerkle, where you'll see Touch Monkey and Knot Carrot. April Fools starts about 30 feet up the ramp to the left of Touch Monkey.

The route climbs the overhanging, pocketed white and brown face for about 60 feet. Excellent position and climbing.

Protection

I believe there are 7 protection bolts and a two bolt anchor. When we installed the anchor, we left webbing with a ring to lower from.

Photos

Chris Beh
  5.11d
Chris Beh  
  5.11d
April Fools is stout. An insecure and pumpy crux lead into sustained 10+ moves with no rest until you get to an ok shake at the 5th bolt before the big runout. IMO it is much easier to go right at the 5th bolt for the intimidating run to the 6th bolt. One hard move close by then big holds. This route is full value. The crux would be much harder in warm conditions. I thought it was harder than Pretty in Pinkler across the way on Dinosaur, 11d. Oct 6, 2016
eddie m
  5.11c
eddie m  
  5.11c
Good route but harder than Hot If You're Not and Touch Monkey for sure. Jun 16, 2015
"I think the name "April Fool's" is a direct reference to the grade. Also be careful between the second and third to last bolts, as mentioned above. My friend took two repeated ~30 footers right before the second to last bolt. It is solid 5.10 climbing there, and you are pumped from the insecure, slopey crux. It's all air, but my pinky jammed into my ATC :'(. He was probably 20 feet from the deck still, but the FA wasn't messing around with how the bolts are placed."

Among other dumb things I did in my youth was wire this route into submission on toprope, then put in the original 4 bolts on rappel. I subscribed to the idea that using less permanent protection was better, and I think it was possible to protect the reach to the first bolt with a tricam. Then the rest was just run and gun, and if you needed, maybe you could jam a cam into a pocket in the middle. I drilled those holes with a hammer and hand drill. At the top, I think we used webbing and a couple of rappel rings at two anchor bolts.

A few months later the guy I did the route with originally, who I'm not sure ever redpointed it, came back and added 3 bolts with a hammerdrill. I responded with righteous indignation: "How dare you!" A couple of years later I came back to the route, out of shape, my body as soft as a ripe peach. Had to hang on every bolt and thanked God the extra bolts were there and wished for more of them too.

We named it April Fools when we finished it on 4/1, and figured a sandbag grade was appropriate. Grades were harder in 1990, but it was still a sandbag when we reported 10d. Kind of silly, but I wasn't a particularly mature 23 year old.

Later we discovered better practices for anchors with chains and stainless rings, but by then bolting was illegal in the Mountain Parks.

Anyway, this is way too much detail on a modest route, but it's the only route I envisioned and put up from beginning to end and I'm pleased it sees some traffic. Sep 13, 2013
Steve Annecone
boulder
  5.11d
Steve Annecone   boulder
  5.11d
Excellent route with a very technical crux and plenty of sustained climbing. I used a small cam before the first (very high) bolt, and a yellow Alien to reduce the big runout (15 ft?) between 4th and 5th bolts. Without this last piece, probably 10+ PG-13 in this section, which isn't too bad if you can do the crux. Apr 13, 2012
Phil Lauffen
The Bubble
  5.11+
Phil Lauffen   The Bubble
  5.11+
I think the name "April Fool's" is a direct reference to the grade. Also be careful between the second and third to last bolts, as mentioned above. My friend took two repeated ~30 footers right before the second to last bolt. It is solid 5.10 climbing there, and you are pumped from the insecure, slopey crux. It's all air, but my pinky jammed into my ATC :'(. He was probably 20 feet from the deck still, but the FA wasn't messing around with how the bolts are placed. Aug 13, 2011
Maybe it was just my head today, but the spaces between the second and third to last bolts felt a little sporty. However, it's pretty easy going, there are a few spots for Aliens/stoppers, and you're probably not as much of a wuss as me. Jul 5, 2009
Wow! That's fantastic news. Thanks for all your efforts, it is much appreciated.

Will Aug 25, 2008
Ted Lanzano
Boulder, CO
Ted Lanzano   Boulder, CO
Thanks, Matt and Paul, and props to you guys for your efforts. It was great updating these routes with you yesterday. There are still routes to be replaced up there, and if anyone is ever interested, let one of us know. Jun 23, 2008
Tony, it's possible the anchors are gone now, the last time I was on this route was in the late '90s, but I assure you we put in two bolts at the top. As I remember, you go straight up and slightly left of the last bolt, maybe 20 feet at most above that last one, and though my recollection is vague, I think is that there is a slight trough in the rock that one follows. Certainly not a groundfall, if you went for a 60' runout well, then your biggest problem is hauling your giant sac around. Aug 3, 2007
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.11b
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.11b
April Fools!?!? What I got to the top and couldn't find the anchor, so April Fools? Did I just miss it at twilight? Well, going up and left to the top is mellow enough climbing, but it's a 60' runout to the summit! If you fell, you'd deck for sure. So, where are the anchors relative to the last bolt? Not up and not left... must be right. I ended up on the summit belaying my second from the ground.
The crux of this route is harder than some of the other 11s in the area. May 10, 2007
Dave J  
AC - this route AND Sunnyside 2 are open during the bat closures. Mar 18, 2007
Should this route be classified as closed, since it's a hundred feet or so up the Sunnyside 2 ramp? Aug 13, 2004
I also felt this route to be harder than 11b, significantly more difficult than "Touch Monkey". Albeit pretty good. Aug 13, 2004
Una Bonger  
 
It's definitely possible that this route is harder than 11b. Some have said as high as 12a, but most I've spoken with believe 11b or 11c.

By the way, the first ascent was on April 1, 1989.

Will Dec 29, 2003
This route is harder than 11b. Dec 20, 2003