Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: equipped by Roger Molina, Spain - FFA Justin Sjong
Page Views: 4,890 total · 36/month
Shared By: panywine on Sep 30, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

4 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details


The route climbs the magnificent arete-face thats starts after the crux of Gates of Eden. You keep bouncing your left hand through the slopers on the left side of the arete, trying to find the best one, and crimping on the small holds with your right hand.

The first four bolts are the hardest of the climb but the real crux is between the third and the fourth. You clip this last one from above, past the hard move. You will actually feel confortable if you find the right position....

A good idea to try the route would be to climb Double Jeopardy and put the draws on the way down. It's very technical, delicate and tricky, so don't lose the oportunity.


The route climbs through the arete on the left side of Double Jeopardy. It shares the same begining than Gates of Eden, turning right after the first bolt.
You lower down from a double bolt anchor (Super Shut) that can be used also to lower from Double Jeopardy.


There are 6 bolts and a double bolt anchor (Super Shut) to lower down.
If you are scared of cliping the first bolt, it's posible to place a piece of gear in the crack (red Alien)


Dan Levison
Boulder, CO
Dan Levison   Boulder, CO
I believe Song did the FFA, but who equipped this route (FA)? Mar 4, 2008
Hi, this is Roger Molina from Spain. I equipped the route a few months ago when I was living in Boulder. I was very close to make the FA but I hade to leave for more important stuff in the Valley.

I hope you like it.... Mar 11, 2008
Paul Hunnicutt
Boulder, CO
Paul Hunnicutt   Boulder, CO
Justin Sjong did the first ascent. His rating was 5.13b and he said it was very nice to climb a hard new route in Boulder Canyon. Apparently though it has been spitting off a lot of other strong climbers according to Justin. Roger - send me an email! I'm putting the Yosemite photos in the mail tomorrow for you. Mar 14, 2008
Ted Lanzano
Boulder, CO
Ted Lanzano   Boulder, CO
Thought I'd let you know that I broke a hold just right of the 4th bolt of this climb. Now the top crux is pretty darn hard, especially if you ascend via the face crimp holds and not the arete. I think an alternative sequence could still go for some strong dude/dudette. Sorry folks! May 16, 2008
What have you done Ted!!!jaja Shit hapens, don`t worry..Do you think that now the route still the same grade?? Oct 8, 2008
Matt Battaglia
Matt Battaglia  
So... more holds have broken. Yesterday I busted a key foot off in the pictured sequence and Patrick Burns busted off a key crimp seen in the picture; both of us were trying the sequence up the arete. The sequence still goes (on the dog for me) but the foot is now a swear and the crimp is smaller. Mar 19, 2009