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Tiempos de Ceguera (Times of Blindness)
5.13b YDS 8a French 29 Ewbanks IX+ UIAA 30 ZA E7 6c British
Avg: 4 from 4
votes
Routes in Bell Buttress - Main Crag
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Arms Bazaar T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Beethoven's Fifth T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13 |
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Bell Air T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Bell Buster S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Cosmosis T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Daedulus Direct T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a PG13 |
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Double Jeopardy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Epiphany T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R |
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Epiphany Direct T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R |
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Freak on a Leash S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Front Line T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Frontier T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R |
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Gates of Eden T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Grand Inquisitor T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Headwall T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Hound Dog S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Joe Pontiac T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Little Man in the Boat T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a R |
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North Face T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Pitts, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Purpose, The T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Route That Dan Missed, The T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X |
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Saved by the Bell T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Spoiled Moose, The T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R |
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Spoils, The T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Three Minute Hero T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Tiempos de Ceguera (Times of Blindness) S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Tiers T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Unknown T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Unknown Crack T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Verve S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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West Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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West Face T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Wrinkles T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
| Type: | Sport, 70 ft |
| FA: | equipped by Roger Molina, Spain - FFA Justin Sjong |
| Page Views: | 4,708 total · 37/month |
| Shared By: | panywine on Sep 30, 2007 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac |
Your Star Rating:
Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update
Details
2018 update: as of April 6, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk are OPEN. Eagle Rock remains closed.
Perennial notice:
Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk will close Feb. 1 until July 31 for raptor nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened or lengthened.
Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st through July 31st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk will close Feb. 1 until July 31 for raptor nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened or lengthened.
Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st through July 31st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Description
The route climbs the magnificent arete-face thats starts after the crux of Gates of Eden. You keep bouncing your left hand through the slopers on the left side of the arete, trying to find the best one, and crimping on the small holds with your right hand.
The first four bolts are the hardest of the climb but the real crux is between the third and the fourth. You clip this last one from above, past the hard move. You will actually feel confortable if you find the right position....
A good idea to try the route would be to climb Double Jeopardy and put the draws on the way down. It's very technical, delicate and tricky, so don't lose the oportunity.
The first four bolts are the hardest of the climb but the real crux is between the third and the fourth. You clip this last one from above, past the hard move. You will actually feel confortable if you find the right position....
A good idea to try the route would be to climb Double Jeopardy and put the draws on the way down. It's very technical, delicate and tricky, so don't lose the oportunity.
Location
The route climbs through the arete on the left side of Double Jeopardy. It shares the same begining than Gates of Eden, turning right after the first bolt.
You lower down from a double bolt anchor (Super Shut) that can be used also to lower from Double Jeopardy.
You lower down from a double bolt anchor (Super Shut) that can be used also to lower from Double Jeopardy.
Boulder, CO
I hope you like it.... Mar 11, 2008
Boulder, CO
Boulder, CO