Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Hank Caylor and Paul Glover, 1987
Page Views: 7,751 total · 42/month
Shared By: Ted Lanzano on Mar 5, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details
Access Issue: Raptor Closure Details

Description

This is classic Flatirons rock climbing. Located on the South Face of the Box, Discipline is one of the most beautiful sport climbs I have ever seen. It also offers some of the best technical face climbing in the Flatirons.

Start by climbing a thin slab with sharp pockets and crimps to a large hole where you can place an optional #3 or 4 cam (see comments below). Continue through an awkward traverse and then the route becomes slightly overhung and also slightly pumpy. You can rest on several jugs around the 5th bolt, but watch as some of these appeared loose. To clip the chains, you'll need to pull a classic top-out onto the upper slab by pulling on some semi-desperate slopers and small crimps. You may want to stick clip the first bolt, but this is not entirely necessary.

If you're up for more face climbing, try Cornucopia to the left. This is a very thin and desperate Dale Goddard route set in the 1980s.

To get to Discipline, park at NCAR and ascend the Mallory Cave trail towards Dinosaur Mountain. Instead of going left up towards Power Bulge, go right (after Der Zerkle) and continue up a moderate incline for about 10 minutes (good cardio warm-up). You'll see the Box on your right.

Protection

6 bolts of climbing to a 2 bolt anchor. A # 3 cam is useful after the 2nd bolt.

Per Mark Rolofson: a few stoppers (#6-8) before the last bolt can be useful.

Photos