Type: Trad, 140 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Randy Leavitt and Bob Horan, 1981
Page Views: 3,893 total · 23/month
Shared By: Tony B on May 14, 2005
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details
Access Issue: Raptor Closure Details

Description

This route is a fabulous route with a little so-so rock. The real business happens on good solid stone though. The wild position and gymnastic moves are memorable enough to make this a "must do" adventure climb despite of the short section of poor rock before the crux. Locate this climb by hiking to the South side of the Box, just above (west of) the concave wall. There is an obvious hand-to-fist crack rising up though the bottom of the West end to a huge ledge, the first pitch. The second pitch is a crack running out right (southeast), diagonally through a 5-meter roof and overhang.

P1. Climb up the handcrack and belay by slinging a HUGE boulder with your cordalette. When your partner arrives, move the belay behind the same car sized boulder and out toward P2.

P2. Climb the crack on P2 and pass the roof to a slab. Once on the slab you can continue right to the tree and belay at the tree. Alternately, if your partner is not strong, and you are kind, you will NOT have placed any gear after the crux of the climb and will instead of finishing up right, will climb up and left to a high point over the crux, perhaps 7 meters up to belay on hand-to-fist sized cams. If (s)he pops off, there will be no big swing.

To descend, cross The Box to the North from the tree though a notch. Scramble slightly down, then traverse West to the Base of Aunt Jennifer's Tigers (all 3rd class).

Protection

Pitch #1 goes on Cams 2" and up. I placed one #2 and one #3 Camalot. Another #3 or a #3.5 would have been nice to have. Pitch #2 goes on a few nuts and small cams to 2"

Photos