Type: Trad, 280 ft (85 m), 2 pitches
FA: Brian Coventry, William Tickman, 2022
Page Views: 261 total · 11/month
Shared By: Brian Coventry on Jul 12, 2022
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Description Suggest change

This route is as close as you can get to a Box east face route until someone dynos the sheer face. This route isn't your usual Flatirons 5.6 R. The gear is closely spaced but tiny! Technician-like skills are needed to climb this safely.

P1. 5.6 R. Start on the ground directly east of The Box's overhang. Follow the splitter up to the tree and then across weird broken/detached sheets of rock to the bottom right corner of the overhang. Go up the ramp a few feet, then move up and left to a horn flake (crux). Move left from the horn getting slightly larger gear, then run it out horizontally across the lip of the roof (5.2 R/X?). Decent gear awaits on the far side allowing you to grace the featured 5.2 slab above with crippling rope drag. Belay at the big tree.

P2. Low 5th Class. Head up to the top of the rock.

Descent: downclimb some 4th Class on the SE ridge, then exit to the north on the large ledge.

Safety notes: after you leave the broken plates on the lower east face (which are themselves quite dangerous), there's a 15 foot section on RPs and ballnuts until you finally get some solid microcams/cams before the traverse. Fully stitching this section should make a fall anywhere safe; however, the 5.2 traverse across the lip could cut your rope if you blow it!

Protection Suggest change

A standard rack to 0.2 (offsets are useful), blue + red Ballnuts (you could place doubles); and doubles RPs.

P1 only goes to 0.75 if you want to pack light.

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