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Routes in The Box

Aunt Jennifer's Tigers T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Box of Rain S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Boxer, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Cornucopia S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Discipline S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Fact of a Door Frame S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Hand Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sample the Dog S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Side Line T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
South Ramp T
Stone Love T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,275 total, 7/month
Shared By: Joe Keyser on Apr 10, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


6 Opinions

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Raptor Closure Details
Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

Go up a short hand crack in a right facing corner for about 10-15 feet, then crank up into an OW crack that moves up and right with a roof. Watch out for a couple loose flakes when moving into the wider crack. The OW is steep, and looks intimidating, but is only about 15 feet long. There is a nice lieback rail inside the crack, and a couple of knee-locks that keep it feeling like 5.9. It protected well with a #4 Camalot at a constriction in the crack. Above the crack, is a chockstone with a perfect #0.5 cam/red Alien slot. Continue another 20 feet or so to the summit, and belay from hand-sized gear.

This pitch climbs the north-west face of the box, and begins from the same block as Aunt Jennifer's Tigers. It starts about five feet to the left of that route, and goes up the obvious corner. It could be possible to mistake the 1st pitch of Stone Love (5.7, also a fun pitch) for this route, but, that route is more on the southwest face.

Descent: from the summit of the box, downclimb the east face through a fist crack (5.2?) for about 30-40 feet to a notch where you can continue on a ramp to the NW, and back to the base of the climb. With a traverse from the top of the climbing, you can also rig a TR on Aunt Jennifer's Tigers, or Fact of a Door Frame.

Protection

Hand sized pieces, plus a #4 Camalot. Optional #0.5 cam, or red Alien placement after the crack.

Photos

The Blueprint Part Dank
FEMA Region VIII
The Blueprint Part Dank   FEMA Region VIII
There's an edge on the upper side of the wide crack. I spent too much time trying to use it as a hold, but it forced my right arm into an odd position that just crushed my tricep on the edge of the crack. I finally gave up on that hold and used traditional OW technique, still felt hard for 5.9, even by Vedauwoo sandbag standards. Sep 22, 2015
Shawn Mitchell
Broomfield
  5.9+
Shawn Mitchell   Broomfield
  5.9+
Fun 20' grovel. Decidedly right-leaning. BETA ALERT: Offwidth humping with left leg; internal and corner edge-pulling for the hands. Jul 29, 2009
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.9+ PG13
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.9+ PG13
Haah ha... not to mention the fact that a good amount of it is 6-9" wide. Traditional 5.9+ sandbag OW moves. The Haas guide attempts to make this clear - the pic is of me placing a #6 Camalot into the 'handcrack' with my whole arm in there. Jul 1, 2009
Dane Casterson
Boulder
 
Dane Casterson   Boulder
 
Grovel Grovel 10a? Grovel, Grovel. May 24, 2007