Avg: 1.3 from 3 votes
|Type:||Sport, 50 ft (15 m)|
|FA:||Erik Fedor & Fred Knapp|
|Page Views:||1,157 total · 5/month|
|Shared By:||Leo Paik on Apr 10, 2003|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
The pins below the 1st bolt seem to be gone. Consider a stick clip for the 1st bolt (perhaps 15 feet up), it is a long ways up and blowing the clip might just ruin your day. Muscle up the overhanging start by walking your feet up the red boulder under the overhang. Get a good spot. Reach up left to a big pebble, then move your right hand up to the big, rough pinch, then move your left hand up to the squared-off-ish edge. Scrunch up and get your feet onto the main wall. Get in balance. Reach up for the 1st clip. Now sidepull/layback a longish edge as you work your feet up on very grippy footholds. Get stable off the edge and make the 2nd clip. I don't recommend blowing this 2nd clip either. From the top of the sidepull/layback edge, move up and right. The climbing becomes less difficult but more balancy. Use the arete and the crack in the dihedral as you work your feet up. Find a good pinch just below the anchor. Clip & rap.
Rap the route from the 2-bolt anchor which is shared with Aunt Jennifer's Tigers. The right bolt could use a link or something better than the thin, split ring and hollow aluminum rap ring. The left bolt also uses a thin, split ring.