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Routes in The Box

Aunt Jennifer's Tigers T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Box of Rain S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Boxer, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Cornucopia S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Discipline S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Fact of a Door Frame S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Hand Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sample the Dog S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Side Line T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
South Ramp T
Stone Love T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Erik Fedor & Fred Knapp
Page Views: 703 total, 4/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Apr 10, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Raptor Closure Details
Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

This is another nice little route on the West face of The Box. It is slightly better than Aunt Jennifer's Tigers. Find this just right of Hand Crack, 5.9 and Aunt Jennifer's Tigers, 5.10d. This a pretty, West-facing wall with brilliant green lichens has 3 of the 5 routes of the West face. It has certainly a bit of a hump for an approach, perhaps 45 minutes, but decent variety in the area can make it worth it. This perhaps-slightly more than vertical route is identified by 3 bolts going straight up to a 2-bolt anchor. On our climb, as of 4/11/3, the 4th bolt described by Rossiter seemed to be missing. Maybe, we couldn't count. Rossiter had already noted the 2 pins were missing previously. In its current state, it is a long way to the first bolt. It would be quite exciting clipping the 2nd bolt. This gets 2 stars, by consensus of 2.

The pins below the 1st bolt seem to be gone. Consider a stick clip for the 1st bolt (perhaps 15 feet up), it is a long ways up and blowing the clip might just ruin your day. Muscle up the overhanging start by walking your feet up the red boulder under the overhang. Get a good spot. Reach up left to a big pebble, then move your right hand up to the big, rough pinch, then move your left hand up to the squared-off-ish edge. Scrunch up and get your feet onto the main wall. Get in balance. Reach up for the 1st clip. Now sidepull/layback a longish edge as you work your feet up on very grippy footholds. Get stable off the edge and make the 2nd clip. I don't recommend blowing this 2nd clip either. From the top of the sidepull/layback edge, move up and right. The climbing becomes less difficult but more balancy. Use the arete and the crack in the dihedral as you work your feet up. Find a good pinch just below the anchor. Clip & rap.

Rap the route from the 2-bolt anchor which is shared with Aunt Jennifer's Tigers. The right bolt could use a link or something better than the thin, split ring and hollow aluminum rap ring. The left bolt also uses a thin, split ring.

Protection

3 quickdraws plus something for the anchors.

Photos

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Steve Annecone
boulder
  5.12 R
Steve Annecone   boulder
  5.12 R
This route seems way harder than 5.11b/c. Wonder if a hold broke off somewhere... anyone done this recently? Sep 13, 2017
Yes, I'm a fan of Adrienne Rich. I only remember placing a single knifeblade about mid-route. These were the days of hand-drilling, so we looked for any method to spare the drill. Sep 28, 2007
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.11c
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.11c
You can put bomber small stoppers in before the first bolt. The climb gets 1 star from me. Good movement, but unpleasantly sharp on the tips. May 26, 2007