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Routes in The Hand

Back in Slacks S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Back in Yaks T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cardboard Cowboy S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
East Face/Hand T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Father on Fire T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Handy Warm Up, The S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lackin' Slacks (aka The Full Monty) T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
New Saigon S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Perfect Kiss (P1 of Rock Atrocity), The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Power Bulge S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Quest for Balance S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rock Atrocity S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Hank Caylor
Page Views: 6,586 total, 33/month
Shared By: Ben Hoyt on Aug 31, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

This route is on the south face of The Hand, just to the (climber's) right of Rock Atrocity on the very overhung southwest face and to the left of another slightly easier bolted line.

Protection

6 or 7 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.
Curt MacNeill
Boulder, CO
 
Curt MacNeill   Boulder, CO
 
Great route. One of the best of the grade in the Flatirons sport climbing mecca. If it's hot, the section from last bolt to the top may feel harder.... Mar 26, 2015
About said tree - I took a fall at the last clip yesterday and missed being impaled by about 6 inches. I'm not exaggerating, and it scared the hell out of everyone there (including me). I only ended up scraping the right cheek but ended up about shoulder level with the pointed end of the tree. I would gladly go top off about 3ft if allowed...but until then, be careful. Sep 13, 2010
The tree has been lopped (or some poor bastard broke it on a fall).
Has anyone ever ended up with this broken tree up their anus?
It looks even sketchier than having the actual limbs there. Mar 7, 2010
YDPL8S
Santa Monica, Ca.
YDPL8S   Santa Monica, Ca.
It's nature's way of receiving you.
It's nature's way of retrieving you.
It's nature's way of telling you.
Something's wrong. Feb 10, 2009
Ben Scott
Fort Collins, CO
Ben Scott   Fort Collins, CO
All right, so what's up with the tree?
The tree below this route is slowly but surely creeping closer.
Two friends of mine took whippers into it on Saturday...yikes!
I wanted to just chop 4-6ft off the top, but they wouldn't have it.

What is the protocol for this sort if issue in the Flatirons?
Is there a tree chopping initiative proposal?

It's only a matter of time before the route is un-climbable because of said tree.
Thoughts? Feb 10, 2009
doug rouse
Denver, CO.
doug rouse   Denver, CO.
Thanks to Matt Samet for taking the initiative, the time, and expense to replace old hardware. I rate this climb as one of the best at the grade that I have done. Now I have another reason to return to Dinosaur Mtn. I hope the anchor/bolt renewal continues, as there are numerous gems up there! Young Doug. Jul 18, 2008
Hank Caylor
Glenwood Springs, CO
Hank Caylor   Glenwood Springs, CO  
Samet, how dare you and your ilk re-bolt my 20 year old, anciently protected, bolted when I was in High School, 45' tall, a full page Sportiva ad with a totally ripped off route name without permission.......Thanx bro! If any maintenence help is needed, give a call. See ya on the 6th.

Caylor Mar 30, 2008
ac
ac  
I was up there this morning and, to me, it looks like Power Bulge was never chopped. That is, unless someone had a stash of vintage hangers and ring bolts that they used to "restore" this route. In that same area, Street Hassle, Back in Slacks, and Drugs, however, all have brand new hardware. Nov 22, 2005
?????
 
?????  
 
From what I could tell they were older (original?) hangers and it didn't look like any of them had been chopped, but I wasn't inspecting them with that in mind. Nov 15, 2005
?????
 
?????  
 
Short but fun... Nov 14, 2005
ac
ac  
I've heard that there are severe issues with many Dinosaur Mtn sport routes. Some unintentional illegality and thus possible access issues here. There were some hints of this on cb.com, but many of those comments have been deleted, and the full extent of the issue was never fully disclosed. I would have thought this would have been cleared up by now... perhaps now is the time, folks? Jul 18, 2005
Rumor has it P-Bulge was recently chopped? Anyone know morw? Jul 18, 2005
Ken Cangi
Eldorado Springs, CO
  5.12c
Ken Cangi   Eldorado Springs, CO
  5.12c
I'm pretty sure that this is Hank Caylor's route. It is a Front Range classic, and worth the hike. Watch out for the Poison Ivy. Jul 16, 2005