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Routes in The Hand

Back in Slacks S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Back in Yaks T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cardboard Cowboy S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
East Face/Hand T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Father on Fire T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Handy Warm Up, The S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lackin' Slacks (aka The Full Monty) T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
New Saigon S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Perfect Kiss (P1 of Rock Atrocity), The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Power Bulge S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Quest for Balance S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rock Atrocity S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Type: Trad, TR, 55 ft
FA: Matt Samet, lead - Chris Weidner
Page Views: 114 total, 1/month
Shared By: Pinklebear on Oct 19, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

This is a toprope line just right (5-8 feet) of Back in Slacks, though it could conceivably be led if you really needed the tick. I TR'ed it right off the Back in Slacks anchors, clipped through the last bolt as a directional.

Start up the clean face with two huecos down and right of Power Bulge / Back in Slacks, then climb up a faint rib. Step up into a licheny hand crack (you'd get slammer gear here, but it would be 30 feet of 5.8 free soloing to get here) which peters out below a bulge. Move over the bulge on crimps to a big flake, then finish on the slab as per Back in Slacks.

It is not a great climb but gives you some mileage if you're in the area.

Location

This is just right of Back in Slacks, south face of the Hand, Dinosaur Mountain.

Protection

Toprope -- hand-sized cams as directionals at mid-height.

Per Chris Weidner: to lead, Camalots #0.4, 0.75, 2, and 3.

Photos

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Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.9 PG13
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.9 PG13
The initial moves are secure enough for a lack of gear to feel OK. The 'handcrack' is kind of hidden as it does not face the base, it faces downhill and to the right. A small Alien can protect an extra few feet above the last gear and minimize the runout to the anchors, which is only 5.7 anyway. Oct 23, 2017
As per the route description, I guess I really needed the tick. I led this route onsight on 5/29/10, and it's actually quite reasonable. The first 30 feet of soloing is steep, solid, and about 5.7. After this there's bomber gear, with one more runout to the anchor (unless you reach left to clip the last bolt of Back in Yaks). Great route!

1ea. Camalots: #0.4, 0.75, 2, 3. Jul 3, 2010