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Routes in The Hand

Back in Slacks S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Back in Yaks T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cardboard Cowboy S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
East Face/Hand T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Father on Fire T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Handy Warm Up, The S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lackin' Slacks (aka The Full Monty) T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
New Saigon S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Perfect Kiss (P1 of Rock Atrocity), The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Power Bulge S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Quest for Balance S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rock Atrocity S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Type: Sport, TR, 60 ft
FA: D. Crawford & J. Lesuer
Page Views: 122 total, 1/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on May 27, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

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Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details


Combine this with Monodoigt & Thinner and your tips may tingle. Find this climb on the West side of the Hand behind a tree perhaps 150 feet downhill from Monodoigt. The tree close to the route provides shade for most of the route.

Pull onto the overhanging rock with jugs. Contort or a backstem to the tree leads up to smaller edges on a flake. Pull-up on better holds slightly to the right of the bolts. There is a fingertip bucket near the second bolt best utilized with the R hand. There is a high left step mid-height with small edges for the tips. Crimp with some power to near the 5th bolt for a crux pinching a small pebble right.

You can avoid the first overhang and first bolt with a scramble left and stem out onto the face.


5 QDs plus something for the 2 bolt anchor


Mr. Stevens
Boulder, CO
Mr. Stevens   Boulder, CO
Very nice pitch of technical, devious face climbing. No chalk on it when I went up the first time and felt like 11+ onsight. After working out the moves, it felt pretty good at 11b going up the second time. Kind of hard to find but worth the effort if you're in the area. May 2, 2015
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
A great route with an appropriate name. The route has good holds, but it always seems a struggle to get established on them, and not for reach, but for balance. After a hard start with a bolt at your waist, clip 4 more bolts passing various sub-cruxes that all seem easy, once you figure them out. The rock is solid and the climbing fun. Just a shave short of 4 stars. Jun 3, 2007
Doug Redosh
Golden, CO
Doug Redosh   Golden, CO
Can be TR'ed by easy though exposed downclimbing over the summit of the Hand, from the Hand/Finger col ("Webspace"?), to the 2 bolt anchors at the top of the climb, just over the edge. One can belay from the Hand summit.Good crimpy climbing, but I thought harder than Monodoigt, 11c, (more power required?) May 29, 2003