Avg: 2 from 15 votes
Routes in The Hand
|Back in Slacks S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Back in Yaks T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Cardboard Cowboy S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|East Face/Hand T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c|
|Father on Fire T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Handy Warm Up, The S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Lackin' Slacks (aka The Full Monty) T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R|
|New Saigon S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Perfect Kiss (P1 of Rock Atrocity), The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a|
|Power Bulge S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b|
|Quest for Balance S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Rock Atrocity S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a|
|Type:||Trad, 3 pitches|
|Page Views:||1,120 total, 6/month|
|Shared By:||Warren Teissier on Jan 14, 2002|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionStart at the low point of the rock on the East face. The start is on the Mallory cave trail just before it winds through a split rock and switchbacks onto the Mallory cave scramble section.
Protection is available when you need it. We did this with a 60m rope in three pitches.
P1- Head up picking your way on easy flaky rock. We belayed at the second ledge system after running up the rope.
P2- From here a short 5.3 (unprotected headwall) deposits you on a large ledge system in front of a chimney. Traverse right (north) to the edge. Peer down into the gully in front of the cave and crank up the protected crux of the climb. Follow a ramp system left to the chimney and belay before crossing.
P3- Cross the chimney and head up easy ground to the summit.
Descent: Scramble north to hiking territory and rappel East from a tree to the front of the cave or hike West through Fatman's Frenzy and then North and East to regain the cave trail. If you rappel, be aware that people might be visiting the cave below you. It is bad form to drop rocks, climbing equipment and even climbers on hikers....