5.13+ YDS 8b French 30 Ewbanks X- UIAA 31 ZA E7 7a British
Avg: 2.4 from 7 votes
|Type:||Sport, 50 ft (15 m)|
|Page Views:||1,719 total · 10/month|
|Shared By:||Jonathan Siegrist on Oct 28, 2008 · Updates|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
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This route climbs out the giant overhang above The Perfect Kiss. Climb through a series of fun and engaging 5.12 moves on creaking crimps. Take a breath and fire into a hard, and very reachy boulder problem to a difficult clip and some endurance 12+ climbing to the chains. The position of this climb is truly amazing and the movement is very reachy, exciting and dynamic.
9 quickdraws. The original anchors to Rock Atrocity were above the lip and clipping them would destroy your rope. I would suggest clipping the last two bolts (biners are hanging up there), climbing to the lip, and calling it good.
Since, newer anchors (2019) were placed at the lip, and the summit anchor up over the slab was updated as well. Still, because your rope runs over the pinch-loaf right of the last bolt, while working the route, it's best to climb to the anchors then reverse to the last bolt to lower. A 70-meter rope is mandatory if doing the route as one long pitch.